A little update from our '' beloved '' goverment .

The tax free rule for classic cars was 25 years or older, now they upped that to 40 years. So I'm Lucky. That means anything above 73 will have to pay tax

Akkoord over wegenbelasting voor oldtimers - Binnenland | Het laatste nieuws uit Nederland leest u op Telegraaf.nl [binnenland]

  bartsscooterservice said:

A little update from our '' beloved '' goverment .

The tax free rule for classic cars was 25 years or older, now they upped that to 40 years. So I'm Lucky. That means anything above 73 will have to pay tax.---

Down here in NZ we pay around half the usual annual car license fee

For a car over 40 years old.

Edited April 25, 201311 yr by olzed

  pressedsteel said:

Bart - Just checking in on your progress today. For what it's worth, the car always ran rich when I had it as well. I would say I changed plugs every 1000 miles or so (that was like once a year) because I could never seem to set the carbs lean enough. Also had trouble with the choke not fully closing ... but I'm sure you remedied that already with the carb rebuild. Regarding the vibration over 70, I don't think it's the tires as I recall a minor shake as wel,l and that was on the prior set of tires. Good luck. Alan

Alan you have any more information about the shaking? Maybe it can help my find the problem.. I just checked all the bolts on the underside of the car, driveline and engine, and some where loose. And I lubed all the grease points. It did help a little again with the vibration, but it's still there.

And about the carbs, any idea if the previous owner swopped needles?

Bart

Did you try swapping front and back wheels?

How do the wheels align with the hub? Are the centre holes in the wheel "hubcentric"?

FYI my car was "snakey" at high rpms due to a failed strut insert in the back.

Blue, thanks for the tip

I checked and 1 wheel seems the holes are worn out, when I put it on the hub, and put the bolts on and then loosen up a bit, I can move it up and down,left and right a little bit, while the other 3 didn't.

I changed wheels front to back, and it did help a little. The steering wheel and the car is steady to about 50 mph, after that the steering wheel starts to shake and vibrate, also I can feel it through the car. Must be a tire/rim problem...

I will take the car to a shop that's specialized in rim repair and also let them put new tires on right away, these ones are from 2002 to old.. and they might help with the problem.

The plugs fooled again today, I will try to get stock needles.

  Blue said:

Did you try swapping front and back wheels?

How do the wheels align with the hub? Are the centre holes in the wheel "hubcentric"?

FYI my car was "snakey" at high rpms due to a failed strut insert in the back.

Different to explain in English, but they are not self centered bolts.

The centre hole in the rim is the same diameter as the hub in "hubcentric" systems. This helps with centering the wheel to the hub.

If you do not have this match of wheel center diameter to hub protrusion diameter then carefully and evenly tighten all lug nuts slowly and try to turn all in a few threads at a time while going side to side and also rocking the wheel when first tightening by hand to make the nuts fit best.

  Blue said:

The centre hole in the rim is the same diameter as the hub in "hubcentric" systems. This helps with centering the wheel to the hub.

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If you do not have this match of wheel center diameter to hub protrusion diameter then carefully and evenly tighten all lug nuts slowly and try to turn all in a few threads at a time while going side to side and also rocking the wheel when first tightening by hand to make the nuts fit best.

Also, non-hub centric wheels (i.e. lug centric) typically require a shanked lug nut.

It doesn't center on the hub, but on the bolts, but the problem must be in the wheels, I swopped front to back, and it did alot towards the vibration..it's alot less. So will try take it to a specialized shop this week if possible. New tires for sure, can't take the risk.

I got some stock needles for the carbs from a friend, and put them in, also turned the mixture screws more lean, so will see what it does overtime.

Also RF brake caliper was leaking, and used a rebuild kit to fix it. 2 small things done today

Still had no time to get new tires. I did found out the wheel seems to center itself on the conical ring, that's on the nut. But it's not a flat ring, that falls into a groove, like the 3rd in the picture below. I can feel a small conical edge in the rim to. But not sure if this is centering the wheel correctly.

Made an appointment for monday for new tires, and they will check the wheel alignment to.

You can get inserts, so the wheel centers on the hub. Anyway, you could ask the shop to do a test on the wheels themselves before mounting the tires. Good luck, and hope you get it sorted. :classic: