240z rebuild / restoration right down to the shell

[grannyknot]

Well I got some good work done this week Most of the tar and undercoat is off now, I have a 40lb box of it sofar but still have a couple of days of washing everything down with solvent. The scraping didn't take as long as I thought it would.

After four days of scraping I headed back into the patches,

Here is the car I really bought.

Previous owner left some stuff in the car, maybe I'll box it up and ship it back to him

Had to cut out the rear seat mounts cause I couldn't find any other way to get through the layers

and I already removed the bottom layer before I cut out this section,

Here I've started to prep for floor pan fitment, I was hoping that I could keep the forward seat mount in place and fit from underneath but I'm not sure I'm going to be able to do that.

Parts of the rockers need work too but if the floor is out at the same time as the rocker I'll have to take it off the rotis and block it up horizontal to keep proper spacing.

When I'm I going to learn, VISIBLE RUST IS ONLY 10% OF WHAT IS THERE!

Madkaw, I'll pm you, pics would be very good right now.

Edited January 21, 2013 by grannyknot

[EuroDat]

Hi,

Love that rotisserie you made. Very inventive.

Its heartbreaking when you start digging all the gunk off and find rust underneath. Thats the problem with a half fix and then covering it up. The rust just keep going ever so slowly, but it doesnt stop. Your going about it the right way. Rust wont be a problem when your finished and Ted will be proud of you;)

[bartsscooterservice]

Good luck on this ! Been there done that.. :tapemouth

Personally I would just bring the shell to a sandblast company or use a mobile blaster, to get it really clean and ready for cutting and welding in new sections. I would not think myself of doing all this labour pain ever again on hand cleaning the shell :sick:

Hey, but anyhow, this looks amazing allready!, keep us updated on your project :classic:

[grannyknot]

Personally I would just bring the shell to a sandblast company or use a mobile blaster, to get it really clean and ready for cutting and welding in new sections. I would not think myself of doing all this labour pain ever again on hand cleaning the shell :sick:

Bart I agree completely but the quotes I got for sand blasting and chemical dipping started at $3600 and went up depending on how long it took. That is an awful lot of money to me, I can buy all kinds of speed and handling with that kind of scratch. So considering I work for free... it was an easy decision.

Started work on the Passenger side inner rocker, it's in bad shape but no one makes these pieces yet so I'll have to fab them out of panel.

The second panel in is actually the inner panel above that goes up to the dash support and down to the bottom of the rocker,

Here I have cut off the rusty bits off the inner panel, now I can clean everything inside before building it back up. The inner panel is 20 gauge and the next one out (or in depending on how you see it) is 16 gauge. All I could find is 18 ga so I'll use that for both and should end up with the same strength.

Before I do that, can anyone tell me if two layers of 18 ga equal one of 20 ga and one of 16 ga ?

You can also see the what is left of the original rocker, still not sure if I'm going to cut all of that out yet or not. It does add strength but is also a source of rust, maybe I'll flood it with phosphoric acid to convert the rust then flood it with POR15

And I got what I ordered just 2 days ago, Murder Max, I've read a couple of reviews and both were glowing.

Multi layer, reflective aluminum foil inside and the price beats everyone else for sound deading.

Edited January 23, 2013 by grannyknot

[madkaw]

You should be fine with 18 gauge. I'm not even sure where they used 16 except the frame rails.

Don't envy your workload. I started a thread for floor replacements, hopefully you will find what you need on there as well as anyone else.

[Casey_z]

Chris

You would never have known the trouble you would find when you were parked next to me in August.

A job like that you work one step at a time.

Ted must be thinking "silly humans":)

Casey

[grannyknot]

Chris

You would never have known the trouble you would find when you were parked next to me in August.

A job like that you work one step at a time.

Ted must be thinking "silly humans":)

Casey

Hi Casey, Oh I knew I had some work ahead of me just didn't think it would be this bad.

Well just plugging away at it, starting to fit the passenger side pan and create a template for the forward foot panel.

I know these pans are normally installed from inside but I really don't want to remove the seat mount/brace. I'm just afraid of the rocker sagging away and so far I can't see any draw backs to mounting from underneath.

If anyone knows of any I would like to hear them.

Got my Technoversions R/T mount and Tachadapter today,

And of course if there is a new box in the garage no matter how small, it has to be checked out.

Ted's a box man,

[madkaw]

I don't think there is a set way of putting in floors -either from the bottom or the top-just get er done;)

If i could have flipped my car over I think I would have gone your route. If you were also able to save the seat rails, then good for you, less work for later.

Looks like your tension boxes have seen better days.

I also had to repair inner rocker stuff which i will be psoting pics of shortly

Looking Good!

Edited January 26, 2013 by madkaw

[grannyknot]

Looks like your tension boxes have seen better days.

Looking Good!

Steve, yeah the T/C boxes are a mess and I was just going to crush them in and weld the Baddog rails over top of them but just saw how you did it, Brilliant! Cut the bottoms out, clean everything and slide the new rails up and weld in. The Baddogs will then fit over top of that and give terrific strength. Can't wait to get to it.

[madkaw]

It worked out well, but if i remember correctly you lose a little length of the rail in the back if you try and cover the whole tension box. Maybe someone can measure for you or give you a reference point for where the stock frame rails sit-exactly. is it going to make a big difference strength wise if they are scooted forward a bit-doubtful, but you should measure.

I will try and remember when i get back in town to look at the pristine 71 in my garage right now that has original floors.

[grannyknot]

Here I'm almost finished welding in the passenger floor, I forgot to take a pic of the finished inside rocker but you can see it here.

The ragged edge is from the first guy 30 yrs ago, hard to make this kind of patch look good,

Fitting new patch,

and this side almost done just need to add the rails, so I've started on the driver side floor.

The clutch pedal pivot wash elongated from so many years of wear so added a bit of weld that I'll file round again.

Clutch M/C connecting piece was the same way,

All together with no slop.

Edited January 29, 2013 by grannyknot

[grannyknot]

I have been lucky that all but one of the seat mounts were restoreable but not this one, too far gone,

so made a template,

and welded the new one up this morning, once it's in I'll add some bracing.