Running rich, fuel pump constantly runs

[SteveJ]

You need to check the CTS when it's warmer to make sure the resistance changes appropriately. If it always thinks the temperature is cold, it will react accordingly.

It turns out the person who brought up the issue on FB had changed his CTS. The new CTS was bad, too.

[Cethern]

I'll test the old sending unit this weekend, and find that fb group surprised that I'm not a member of it anyway, I am thinking that something in the ignition has gone south, yesterday I shot some starting fluid into the air filter and it wouldn't fire, which could be why I wasn't getting the new timing light to light up.

This weekend I'll recheck the timing marks on the chain, the cap, rotor and wires are good, plugs are new and gapped at 40.

It could be a good time to upgrade the ignition. I pulled out some fuel from the tank thinking that there might be water in the fuel but it looked okay.

[Cethern]

A update on my issue, I put in a ZX dizzy following Blues tips, and to get it to fire I have to disconnect the blue wire for the ecm only then will the car run and that's with the help of starting fluid.

I'm so tired of this fuel injection, if I had a carb setup handy I would install it in a heartbeat.

[SteveJ]

Did you disconnect the Transistor Ignition Unit?

[Cethern]

I hadn't SteveJ, but I just went out and did that, now it tries to start but it won't, the timing light won't light up now, I'm still getting spark from the coil which is a good thing.

[SteveJ]

If you connected the ZX distributor properly, you wouldn't need the TIU. It sounds like somehow you removed the voltage from the starter to the ballast resistor.

[Cethern]

I'm not sure how I would of done that,

I used the 12v black with white wire from the + side of the ballast resistor and put it on the + of the coil, I also put the condenser on there and the brown wire from the module.

On the - side of the coil I put the blue wire from the module, and the solid blue wire from the ballast resistor, I didn't use any of the other wires on the ballast.

[SteveJ]

I see your problem now. The black/white wire only has 12VDC when the car is running. One black/blue wire provides 12VDC when cranking. The other goes to the condenser. The black/blue with 12VDC would have to go to the coil as well.

[Zed Head]

Sounds like you might actually have only the Start circuit connected to the new module and coil. There are two circuits from the ignition system at the ballast resistor, one is the ballast bypass for when you are Starting, and the other is the power through the ballast for when you are running.

I'm just guessing, but since you test for spark by cranking the engine with Start, and the engine tried to start but doesn't, it seems like power might be going away when you let go of the key.

[SteveJ]

Sounds like you might actually have only the Start circuit connected to the new module and coil. There are two circuits from the ignition system at the ballast resistor, one is the ballast bypass for when you are Starting, and the other is the power through the ballast for when you are running.

I'm just guessing, but since you test for spark by cranking the engine with Start, and the engine tried to start but doesn't, it seems like power might be going away when you let go of the key.

Actually, I think he was getting voltage from the TIU when he was cranking before, or he was getting some detonation of the starting fluid.

If you look at the attached pictures, you can see the black/blue wire that is only energized in the Start position. It goes to the midway point of the ballast resistor. He didn't connect that wire. It's the wire that provides the voltage to the coil during starting.

[SteveJ]

So with the "Like", does that mean you got the car running?

[Cethern]

I only had the one black and blue wire,..... I well I went hooked it to the +side, and no change, it almost fires up, timing light still doesn't light up either.

And I was so close.

Thanks again for the help