Flat, straight and parallel is more important than clean. Along with the critical dimensions of valve seats, guides, etc. You're focusing on the wrong thing, if you plan to use the engine to make the car move.

Those should all be good. Valves were sealing before it was taken a part, seats were replaced with steal seats. I wasn't looking forward to heading back to the shop anytime soon because it did take almost 5 months to get my last head with the wrk done. I got what I asked but the timing wasn't my favorite. Can't beat the price though.

I would try to get it cleaner than that. Paint remover then 2 inch wide paint scraper. You can do it withought gouging the metal.

thats what I've been using, I even tried air craft stripper...had it sitting for about 10+min before trying to scrape off with a paint scraper

If necessary I use 600/800 grit metal oxide wet sand paper, on a flat/straight sanding block about 6" long. I put the heads in the parts washer and flow cleaning solvent over them while working the sand paper. I've only had to do that a couple of times - normally just the cleaning solvent in the part washer and a gasket scraper do the job.

FWIW,

Carl B.

Foam oven cleaner works good for me with a brass wire brush. Cleaned a valve cover yesterday.

Take it to a machinist and have him cut it .0039" (.1mm). That should clean it up well and not have an appreciable effect on cam timing.

I agree with carl's post #15 and john's above. Check if its straight and skim it just enough to clean up the surface. You say its shaved. Is it a P90 shaved 80 thou? Doesnt look like it, but im having trouble with the photo on the pad.

Its an e31 shaved

Skim cut like JC said and it shouldn't effect your shim job. You want the right surface for the HG to seal. That e31 wlll have some pop to it- what block?

Skim cut like JC said and it shouldn't effect your shim job. You want the right surface for the HG to seal. That e31 wlll have some pop to it- what block?

E31 block

Stock valve sizes?

I can understand the desire to DIY, but a complete head rebuild that re-uses the valves and valve seats is $300. The head is off and the valves out. Take it to a shop and have them do a rebuild. Hell, if you tell them that you'll reassemble, the price may be around $200.

Well hello Bo-haven't seen you around these parts lately.

Like Bo said-and you said you weren't hurting for money. Find another shop that can get the basics done in a reasonable amount of time.

You do it right and that little l24 will reward you nicely!

This is what you want it to look like!!

Again I ask-stock valve sizing?