Would you run this?

[Perfect240Z]

Well hello Bo-haven't seen you around these parts lately.

Like Bo said-and you said you weren't hurting for money. Find another shop that can get the basics done in a reasonable amount of time.

You do it right and that little l24 will reward you nicely!

This is what you want it to look like!!

Again I ask-stock valve sizing?

Umm I believe they are stock valve size, but the head already has steal valve seats. I can go and ask maybe this week at the shop if they can get it cleaned within the week.

[Zed Head]

Did the head come complete, with cam, rocker arms, etc., from a running engine, with the new steel valve seats already installed and broken in? Or did you remove the valves and replace the seats? Did you keep the rocker arms, valves and assorted pieces in the order that they were taken out? Just curious, since you might have other problems when you try to put it back together.

A little bit of heat would probably soften the old gasket material and make it easier to remove. Makes some people nervous but the gasket will soften up well before any damage is done to the head. A heat gun would work if a torch is too scary.

[tlorber]

As stated above, you need to have it milled. Not shaved but milled to get a completely flat surface. If you have a concern about thickness you can get a thicker head gasket. You should mic the existing thickness and compare it to new condition.

Keep in mind that these heads are not particularly rare or expensive (I have 3 of them at my warehouse + one on a spare motor. If yours is over cut you could probably buy one for $60.00 and then have the machine work done.

[Perfect240Z]

Did the head come complete, with cam, rocker arms, etc., from a running engine, with the new steel valve seats already installed and broken in? Or did you remove the valves and replace the seats? Did you keep the rocker arms, valves and assorted pieces in the order that they were taken out? Just curious, since you might have other problems when you try to put it back together.

A little bit of heat would probably soften the old gasket material and make it easier to remove. Makes some people nervous but the gasket will soften up well before any damage is done to the head. A heat gun would work if a torch is too scary.

The head didn't come with a cam, but it came with everything else. Im replacing the rockers with the cam im putting in. The steal seats were broken in for sure. And everything is in order.

[madkaw]

Ummmm-if your not sure, you might want to make sure- or you WILL be doing a complete head rebuild.

Umm I believe they are stock valve size, but the head already has steal valve seats. I can go and ask maybe this week at the shop if they can get it cleaned within the week.

[Perfect240Z]

Ummmm-if your not sure, you might want to make sure- or you WILL be doing a complete head rebuild.

Everything I have for it is labeled from cylinder 1-6 in separate baggies, I don't have any doubts on anything like that. I'll try cleaning the head more. If I cant get it cleaner then I'll take it to the shop.

[ktm]

Well hello Bo-haven't seen you around these parts lately.

Steve, I lurk from time to time and try to add constructive advice when I can. This site, as well as Hybridz, as helped me out more than I can repay.

If the towers have already been shimmed and you are this far down the proverbial rabbit hole, don't keep throwing good money after bad. At some point you may want to consider picking up another head that is in better condition. Cleanliness is nice, but what you really want (as others have stated) is flatness. If the head is warped at all you will not get a good seat on the head gasket.

Saying that, if this is just to get the car running, have you tried taking a razor blade to the head (one from a utility knife). Use the bare blade and angle it at a 30 degree or shallower angle and, using both hands, push the blade forward across the surface. If you find that it is sliding over the material, you can steepen the approach a bit until you get a bite but you have to be careful.

[Perfect240Z]

Steve, I lurk from time to time and try to add constructive advice when I can. This site, as well as Hybridz, as helped me out more than I can repay.

If the towers have already been shimmed and you are this far down the proverbial rabbit hole, don't keep throwing good money after bad. At some point you may want to consider picking up another head that is in better condition. Cleanliness is nice, but what you really want (as others have stated) is flatness. If the head is warped at all you will not get a good seat on the head gasket.

Saying that, if this is just to get the car running, have you tried taking a razor blade to the head (one from a utility knife). Use the bare blade and angle it at a 30 degree or shallower angle and, using both hands, push the blade forward across the surface. If you find that it is sliding over the material, you can steepen the approach a bit until you get a bite but you have to be careful.

I have no doubt that the head isn't flat. Im sure its up to spec on that, Im on the side of being cheap and lazy and DIY cleaning . I don't like to spend money if I don't have to ya know? I was asking because I've read many threads where people got a head from the JY and popped it on and it ran fine. I went back out tonight and tried some easy off and that didn't do much good either. I can take it to the shop and have it cleaned. I also said I wanted to get it back together and the car going because Im not rebuilding the block either. My block was fine before I pulled it out to get the car restored and so fourth planning later on to build a L28 with some kick to it and not sparing any expense , later on down the line if I decide to sell, I would get the L24 back in new condition. If the shop will just clean the head within a week I'll be fine with it. If its going to take forever to do then im going back to DIY .

[madkaw]

Well I have been reading this and I am confused, so you bought this head from another member-just the head?

So you are going to install this unknown head on your L24 to just get it going right?

[JLPurcell]

Carl's clean up should work, wet or dry sandpaper and solvent with a long flat sanding block. Then take a straight edge and check it for flat, I personally would not put the time and energy into the project without having it checked for defects (cracks around the valve seats and guides etc...)

JLP

[FastWoman]

{{I have no doubt that the head isn't flat}}

Is this a misstatement on your part? You're saying you're certain the head is NOT flat? If this is what you're saying, then you should definitely have the head milled flat -- without question! Having a machine shop do the required work on a head is quite cheap. I wouldn't hesitate to have the head professionally rebuilt, just because.

FAIW, I've found a milled coarse file is wonderful for cleaning off mating surfaces. Here's one:

FK SKS Milled Coarse File 100mm - Edge And Wax

They're a bit hard to find, but they're very flat, and they aggressively remove whatever is on the surface, without removing underlying material, provided you use them carefully. That said, I would still take the head to a machine shop. Have it done right!

[EuroDat]

I wouldnt mill a bent head. You will most probably break the cam because your constantly bending it everytime it turns a revolution. You need to get it straightened first and then skim the surface.

Its better to just fit the bend head and torque it down. The aluminium is flexable enough to follow the block. Then check if the cam turns. This is pretty crude fix, but the head isnt all that crash hot anyway.

Chas