The driver's side floor is essentially the same, but I had additional rust damage to repair first. The rust ate the forward part of the inner rocker all the way thru to the outside of the rocker. The inner rocker needs to be repaired in order to restore the attaching point for the floor.

I found some shelving rails that duplicated the rail on the inner rocker nicely and welded it into place after welding in some sheet to replace the inner rocker.

All in all, this job is a lot of work, but definetly doable by the DIY. I have read threads where members complain about the estimates a body shop gives to do this work, I hope this helps you to see that it is very time consuming--and time is money.

It might be one of the better DIY jobs for the fact that if you aren't the prettiest welder, you can practice on the car in areas that most folks will never see!

Looks good , I'm getting ready to start on my 260Z. One thing I noticed is you used plug welds instead of spot welds. Have you seen the new M.I.G. attachment from Eastwood.It let's you spot weld with a M.I.G. instead of plug welds . I have an arc welder with the spot welder set up that I'm going to use. Spot weldes are what these cars are made of, and of course lot's of seam sealer as well. Also good job on using clelcos that's what they are made for, IE holding metal parts before riviting or welding.....As an airframer in the Navy once I saw them I never looked back ,drill/punch holes and cleco in place. And then one at a time spot weld until done....No clamps or screws just one and done per spot.

Steve,

Thanks for the tips and photos! I'm a future DIY welder and plan to start the rust repair of my Z this Spring. The clecos are a great idea!

Robert S.

i noticed there are two holes in the rear seat mount. why is that when only the back hole is used?

The original rear mounts had two holes and when we made a replacement version we kept the two hole option. It would allow you to move the seat farther forward (shorter legs?).

Thanks for the plug by the way (Bad Dog Parts - frame rails and 240 seat brackets)!

you may be right but then the front mount would not lineup.

ps- i'm short legged and i still have to slide the seat back a bit.

Using plug welds was a matter of using what i had as far as equipment. The plug weld is effective for the fact it welds in the center of the metal overlap.

The cleco's are fantastic because they CHEAP and a much easier way to hold panels without having to leave marks or gouges from welding clamps.

I never looked back either-I am also from the aircraft industry.

Looks good , I'm getting ready to start on my 260Z. One thing I noticed is you used plug welds instead of spot welds. Have you seen the new M.I.G. attachment from Eastwood.It let's you spot weld with a M.I.G. instead of plug welds . I have an arc welder with the spot welder set up that I'm going to use. Spot weldes are what these cars are made of, and of course lot's of seam sealer as well. Also good job on using clelcos that's what they are made for, IE holding metal parts before riviting or welding.....As an airframer in the Navy once I saw them I never looked back ,drill/punch holes and cleco in place. And then one at a time spot weld until done....No clamps or screws just one and done per spot.

Using plug welds was a matter of using what i had as far as equipment. The plug weld is effective for the fact it welds in the center of the metal overlap.

The cleco's are fantastic because they CHEAP and a much easier way to hold panels without having to leave marks or gouges from welding clamps.

I never looked back either-I am also from the aircraft industry.

Looks good , I'm getting ready to start on my 260Z. One thing I noticed is you used plug welds instead of spot welds. Have you seen the new M.I.G. attachment from Eastwood.It let's you spot weld with a M.I.G. instead of plug welds . I have an arc welder with the spot welder set up that I'm going to use. Spot weldes are what these cars are made of, and of course lot's of seam sealer as well. Also good job on using clelcos that's what they are made for, IE holding metal parts before riviting or welding.....As an airframer in the Navy once I saw them I never looked back ,drill/punch holes and cleco in place. And then one at a time spot weld until done....No clamps or screws just one and done per spot.

Those rear mounts could have been from any number of other Datsun vehicles.