Mine probably won't get started for another few weeks due to other priorities. I'm hopeful that with the rubber pad I used between the pump and the mounting plate I have a similar outcome to Jeff's!

I'm also curious about the clogged line and glad I haven't found anything like that!

On 8/14/2017 at 7:13 PM, JSM said:

Mine was only loud until it primed. Then I can hear it hum some, but once running I hear nothing. 

What is that clogged line from?

It was on the small section of hose just before the fuel filter. My hypothesis is the filter was catching some gunk and then it was sinking (gravity) while the car sat and eventually accumulated. I haven't seen this anywhere else. Clean fuel flowed out wherever else I've detached fuel line. Though it's been years since I did my tank, I don't see any other signs. Also, once I replaced this hose the car ran fine.

On 14/8/2017 at 8:13 PM, JSM said:

Mine was only loud until it primed. Then I can hear it hum some, but once running I hear nothing. 

What is that clogged line from?

Well i am replacing mine with another airtex 8012s electric pump, as the actual one i just supplying 2.9 psi and my car is starving at idle. Whenever i go up a hill i need to open the choke. The pump was accidentally painted black when the car was restored last year. I am also considering to replace both 5/16 in and out of pump rubber hoses and clamps with new ones. Anyway, is it really recommendable to add and additional fram g3 fuel filter isnt the metal one that comes with the pump enough? I already have dorman glass fuel filter at the engine bay.

 No but I had some junk in my tank. 

On 24/11/2017 at 6:33 PM, JSM said:

 No but I had some junk in my tank. 

New pump and fuel hoses with clamps. Ill test the car today 

On 14/8/2017 at 8:13 PM, JSM said:

Mine was only loud until it primed. Then I can hear it hum some, but once running I hear nothing. 

What is that clogged line from?

Do you think the hoses are correctly connected and routed allowing free pressure and volume flow?

24 minutes ago, jalexquijano said:

Do you think the hoses are correctly connected and routed allowing free pressure and volume flow?

If you have doubts about fuel flow to your carbs, do a capacity check using the figures I provided you in one of your other carb threads earlier this week..  You've already done a pressure check according to earlier posts.  Those are two quick ways to eliminate worries about pump based carb starvation.  Let me know what results you get after running the tests.

Dennis

 

 

My floats are already set. I was just wondering if the fuel pump was correctly routed.

If the pump is oriented in the proper direction and the clamps are tight, turn it on and check for leaks. No leaks, fire it up. You'll probably take it for a spin but if it doesn't run well, remember, we still need to verify the fuel height in the nozzles at 2 1/2 turns down. Then we can move on to fine tuning.

On 4/22/2013 at 8:24 PM, grannyknot said:

ford inertia switch | eBay

This is one of the best inertia switches made, inexpensive and rock solid quality.

Thanks Chris!

FORD INERTIA INFO:

 

On 8/3/2017 at 6:14 PM, thumper300zx said:

So you plan on going from live (on ignition) black into inertia switch then to green wire? What is the black wire even for at the back? These little aftermarket pumps can be grounded to the frame, so if black is coming from powered source to then go to green, why a black wire at back?

 

I have a 4-72 240Z I found a bullet wire that's hot that goes to the ignition I hooked up my electrical fuel pump to it... it is on the firewall next to the alternator