Hi

I've been restoring my 72' 240z that's completely stock. I've got round top SU carbs that I rebuilt with the Z therapy rebuild. I recently got it running for the first time in fifteen years which is great. After the car gets up to operating temperature, and the choke is completely off, if I spike the accelerator it bogs down. If i hold the accelerator down about halfway it bogs down and eventually dies. If I feather the throttle and get the rpms up to about 2000, then spike the accelerator it will rev, but with quite a bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust.

I checked the float levels using the clear tube method and both appear to be fine.

I'm not sure what to do next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Will

Will, I'd guess it's either electrical or fuel. If the car has been sitting for a while, as you state, you might want to check the fuel filter and the banjo screens at the carbs. If the is junk in the lines, you may be starving the motor at higher rpm's.

If all fuel issues are good, you should check timing and advance of the distributor (assuming plug wires and firing order are all correct).

What color smoke?

Black - pig rich

Blue - oil

White - coolant

You need to give more info.

What else have you done as far as engine tune up since this car sat so long?

Above scenarios are just revving the engine in the driveway or under load?

Fuel system been cleaned?

Compression test?

Valves adjusted?

Timing checked?

Battery condition ?

Alternator output?

You need to give more info.

What else have you done as far as engine tune up since this car sat so long?

Above scenarios are just revving the engine in the driveway or under load?

Fuel system been cleaned?

Compression test?

Valves adjusted?

Timing checked?

Battery condition ?

Alternator output?

I've replaced all the rubber lines, fuel filter, had the tank boiled out and sealed, put a new battery it it. I have new plugs and wires, new distributor cap, rotor and points. The car is sitting in the garage and hasn't moved so it is not under a load.

Is there a way to check the timing without a timing light?

Not accurately.

Get a timing light if you plan on having a hobby car.

Borrow a vacuum gauge from autozone and check vacuum

Get a 10$ multimeter and check voltage at the battery.

Replacing parts is only half the battle

Idles smoothly at what rpm?

Well my plan is to get it running well enough to drive it to my mechanic.

Quick question. The rod outlined in red doesn't move even with the engine running. Is it supposed to move? It is keeping the thing outlined in yellow from moving as well.

Might this cause the problem? Would it be wise at this point to delete some of the stuff on the balance tube like I have seen others do?

Get a timing light if you plan on having a hobby car.

Borrow a vacuum gauge from autozone and check vacuum

Get a 10$ multimeter and check voltage at the battery.

Replacing parts is only half the battle

Idles smoothly at what rpm?

Around 800.

Bare with me on this because this is my first project.

How do you check for vacuum? I have a multimeter but have no clue how to use it.

Get on YouTube and search how to...

You will be amazed

How many turns down are your nozzles?

Have you downloaded a copy of the factory service manual yet? You can find them here: XenonS30

The rod outlined in red doesn't move even with the engine running. Is it supposed to move? Might this cause the problem? Would it be wise at this point to delete some of the stuff on the balance tube like I have seen others do?

No.

Tell you what... If you can provide the name that the service manual calls the round thing with the black tube attached to it that's above your red outlined rod, then I'll tell you all about what it does.

But...but...but...where could one find one of those "service manuals"?