I'm desperately in need of a GOOD, solid mechanical bottom end for an L24 out of an early 240Z. My car is a '72 and spun a bearing.

Or if someone is selling a stock L24 engine please contact me.

-Mike

Whitecomet21@comcast.net

I have a complete perfect long block from my original 71 Z with 71000 original miles on it. It is sitting in my storage unit right now. But I have no idea how I would get it to you. Shipping would cost a fortune.

I have a complete perfect long block from my original 71 Z with 71000 original miles on it. It is sitting in my storage unit right now. But I have no idea how I would get it to you. Shipping would cost a fortune.

Hmmm, what are you looking to get for it? I know to transport a full car from Oklahoma back here to where I am in PA was only $450. Let me know what you're willing to let it go for and if you can get me a shipping quote as well. Can you email pics to my email address as well please?

-Mike

I have a 73 long block has been sitting for a while. The block should be good but I imagine that the cylinders would have to be bored out due to sitting out so long. I have been trying to give it to someone. jlp

Richmond, IN 47374

Edited February 1, 201312 yr by JLPurcell

I paid 275 dollars jsut to ship an engine from dock to dock. Shipping from door to door gets far more expensive. I have no way to get the long block to a shipping center at this moment. So it will have to be door to door shipping would could cost as much as 450 dollar in itself. You are talking about a 300+ lb chunk of metal. Shipping an engine is not an inexpensive affair. So try to find one locally. My 71 engine will eventually go to somebody as well, but shipping is going to be a nightmare.

You'll probably break some studs and bolts and find stuff that needs repair in the head when you take the engine out to swap parts. Might be better off to buy a complete engine.

How did you "spin" the bearing and how do you know? Everyone loves a good story...

You'll probably break some studs and bolts and find stuff that needs repair in the head when you take the engine out to swap parts. Might be better off to buy a complete engine.

How did you "spin" the bearing and how do you know? Everyone loves a good story...

Its a real short story....the car was purchased in non-running condition for around $1K. Body is clean, no rust, etc. Had that looked over....cylinder head(e88) was machined and a valve job was completed by my local machine shop. In reassembly, a different garage(where the car itself was located because they are doing other small things to it, electrical, interior, etc) told me that one of the connecting rods was bent, that its going to need the crank to be machined, so I'm basically trying to find the most cost effective way to install a good running STOCK engine. They are supposed to get back to me later on today with a general quote for the machining and extra work, but I was thinking that it might be easier to just swap in a different L24 engine that is in already good running condition. Then just do the intall myself and do it that way. Guess I'll know more when the shop calls me back with the estimate.

I wish there was a more entertaining story to tell you guys...I've thought about just buying a complete engine, but there goes a little bit of my income tax refund and that money is already being sunk into a classic bike project for my father. He has a 1967 Honda Dream 160 touring that I've been after him to restore for the better part of 25 years....so I'm just taking my refund and using it for that to surprise him with.

If you are going to use a non-matching number long block - why not just use any good running L24, L26 or L28 with N42 head? Any of them will direct bolt into the car. The L28 with N42 {75/76} head is very easy to swap to carb's and it mounts to the original square port exhaust manifold. A broader range of engine blocks may yield something closer to you.

FWIW

Carl B.

Edited February 1, 201312 yr by Carl Beck

If you are going to use a non-matching number long block - why not just use any good running L24, L26 or L28 with N42 head? Any of them will direct bolt into the car. The L28 with N42 {75/76} head is very easy to swap to carb's and it mounts to the original square port exhaust manifold. A broader range of engine blocks may yield something closer to you.

FWIW

Carl B.

Thank you Carl....yes, I've thought of this option as well, but was unsure of what WILL or will not swap over. I guess my only concern is that I have a brand new rebuilt E88 so if it mates up to a different block that'd be great! Or like you said, the N42/L28. I'll have to check to see what is cost-effective, and close by to where I'm at(Scranton, PA)

I'm four hours away in Falls Church, VA. I have the L24 I pulled a month ago to replace with an L28. It has an E88 Head with a slalom-grind camshaft. It could use a good going through, but I don't intend to ever reuse it.

I run an E-88 on my L28.. so that should not be a problem as long as you stick to the 75-78 L28's with dished pistons. You can use an L28 with flat top pistons, as long as the head hasn't been milled to much.

FWIW,

Carl B.

Thanks for the response fellas! I'm still awaiting a quote on having the crankshaft machined, along with the bearings and the replacement connecting rod before I decide what way to go. I have money into a fully rebuilt cylinder head (E88), so once I get the quote I'll have a good idea of which way I'd like to go.

-Mike