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Valve guides or seals?


Pomorza

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Lads

This past weekend I went on a rather lengthy drive with the Z - it was really nice to get her out on some nice curvy roads kill some tires. I have noticed that on deceleration there is a distinct smell of oil. My buddy was driving behind me and said he could smell oil but didn't see any smoke - other then black when I floored it around corners. When I got back in town I was about .5 - .75 qaurt short on oil, which I'm assuming was burned. Pulling the plugs, there's not fauling but the #3 and #4 plug show that oil was present at one time or another.

For what I remember from all the lovely books I've read this is a sign that the valve seals are bad. Am I correct in this assumption?

Thanks for the read

Jan

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If the valve seals are worn and hard you can gennerally test it by coasting down a hill with no throttle and the full gas. The coasting will cause high vacuum which will pull in the oil, and full gas will wash it all into the cylinders. The will show up as a puff of blue smoke for a couple of seconds and then stop.

The seals can be changed without removing the head. You do need some special tools and rope to keep the valves up. Do a search in the forum. You will find some threads detailing the procedure.

Chas

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Yer, thats it. Its in a thread you had a while back. There are other threads covering this as well. You dont need the special tool. If you are handy you can make one easy. I made (bent) one out of 5mm plate steel with a big hole drilled through it the get the cleats out of the spring retainer.

Chas

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Your oil consumption could be a symptom of a car that has only done short runs for a while, which builds up moisture in the oil. Then a long run will cook the moisture off, lowering the oil level.

Valve seals are a cynch to do if you have the right lifter. There are a couple of methods to hold the valves closed. Compressed air, which requires a compressor and spark plug compressor adaptor. Rope in cylinder. Plastic tube in cylinder.

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Your oil consumption could be a symptom of a car that has only done short runs for a while, which builds up moisture in the oil. Then a long run will cook the moisture off, lowering the oil level.

Valve seals are a cynch to do if you have the right lifter. There are a couple of methods to hold the valves closed. Compressed air, which requires a compressor and spark plug compressor adaptor. Rope in cylinder. Plastic tube in cylinder.

You know you do have a point, most of my drives have been rather short in the past couple of months - two miles each way roughly . Ill drive on it a bit and see what happens - though I am looking for an excuse to do the front cover.

For reference does anyone know where one could procure one of those epic tools, or pictures or directions on how to make your own?

Thanks

Jan

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This is a little similar to what I made. KD912 VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR

You just need to find some steel strip thick enough so it will not bend when you use it as a lever to compress the spring. Then you need to drill a hole through it so the valve stem can pass through it and release the cleats.

This is also an option but can be tight to get in position MST4573 UNIVERSAL OVERHEAD VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR

Folow the steps in olzed link.

If you use rope to keep the valves up. Turn the engine over until the piston is about 1" from the top. Feed the rope in through the spark plug hole until its full. Turn the motor until the piston is TDC. That will compress the rope and hold the valve firmly in place.

Dont forget to tap the spring retainer, on top outer edge, with a soft hammer to release the cleats. Otherwise they wil stick and wont come off.

Chas

Edited by EuroDat
Second link to universal tool added
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