Finally installed rear camber adjustable bushings

[John Coffey]

The offset aluminum/delrin rear inner LCA bushings have been used fro decades on race cars. The do allow a very precise adjustment of toe, camber, tracking, and roll center at the back of the car but its time consuming. When I put those on the back of a customer car it takes 4 to 6 hours to get the alignment right. You don't just put them in place and start twisting.

Also, that toe adjuster cobbled into the rear transverse link in the other thread is a scary piece of work. I would never have anything like that on my cars and I would never put it on any of my customer cars.

[EuroDat]

The camber and caster adjustment could be done by using the LCA bushes and threading the tension rod to correct caster. I wonder if anyone here has done this to a standard tension rod?

I am using a Tension rod T/C kit which improved the steering over bumps a lot. Now I just want to fine tune the alignment. Without any changes the only adjustment you have is toe-in.

Tension rod T/C:

Motorsport! Tension Rod T/C Kit, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

LCA Camber adjusting bushes:

Motorsport! Camber Adjustment Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

Camber adjusting insulators:

Motorsport! Street Camber Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

Just wondering how this works. I figure you need to drop it out of the tower and rotate it 1/3 turn to change camber settings. They say "simple camber changes" If you have to drop it down to change setting its not that simple, but it doesnt require any cutting. The rear sets are the same price as the control arm adjusters. Only problem on a 280Z is it drops the ride height 3/4". The 280Z had taller rear insulators. In the 240/260Z they are all the same.

Chas

[madkaw]

Gnose,

Any pics on the modification of the insulator.

Slotting alone only netted me about 1 degree- another degree and my 245's might clear!!!!!!

[z boy mn]

Hey everyone, thank you again for your comments. It looks like I'm in good shape as have those bushings front and back as well as the Tension Rod kit for caster. I'll have to find a shop who knows what they're doing in terms of getting all the adjustments right. Also, it could be the street kit for the rear would be all I need. Hmmm. I guess the key is to take it in and find out where it is now and go from there before I throw more hardware at it. If the rears are within 1.5, I can simply add that one kit for the rear though I have a 240, I suspect it works the same way. I did notice the 240 kit has fewer parts (such as washers), though....I wonder if that makes a difference.

[gnosez]

The three bolt stock insulator slotted is simple and easy to do. You don't have to trim the insulator unless unless you find you need to.

The race car has the tops slotted and we get -2.5 but we ground down one side of the insulator.

[madkaw]

So you use stock springs and grind down the insulator. I guess you grind it down at an angle or cone shape so you retain the perch for the spring? This allows the top to swing in more?

The three bolt stock insulator slotted is simple and easy to do. You don't have to trim the insulator unless unless you find you need to.

The race car has the tops slotted and we get -2.5 but we ground down one side of the insulator.

[gnosez]

Correct, but only if you want more negative camber. A 1/2-inch slot at the top coupled with a set of concentric RCA bushings will do the trick nicely. Grinding gets you another 1-2 degrees.

[z boy mn]

And it will wok in the other direction, too, yes? I'll need to move the top of shock tower out (toward the exterior) so as to add positive camber. I only need a degree or so.

[gnosez]

Yes, but you should not need no more than 0 degrees camber and I would go with 0.25 negative. Don't go over 0 positive.

I run 1.8 neg in the rear of my street 240 with 0 toe. Fronts are 1.5 neg, 1/8 toe and 4 degrees caster. That's with 225s on the front and 245s in the rear. Corners very well.

Edited February 10, 2013 by gnosez

[z boy mn]

Just got in from blowing snow...I'll have the car checked out as soon as it all melts and make a plan from there. Thank you again for your help!