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Spindle Pin Woes


Hardway

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Is getting the spindle pin out easier on a rust free car?

Not always. My '78 pins were exactly like Hardway's and my car is 99% rust free. After the standard methods failed and I cut the pins, the huge press at work still struggled to get them out. When they finally did come out, I could see that the PB Blaster failed to make it more than an inch in from either end.

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Is the spindle pin usually replaced because it is supposed to rotate slightly as the rear wheels go over bumps but can't if it gets old and rusty? How does it affect handling or something else when it needs replacing?

The spindle pin should not turn. Its fixed by the cotter pin a little off from the centre. To replace the lower control arm bushes you need to remove the spindle pins.

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Thanks for the compliments guys. Yes, I am very glad they are out and its over. I used my rotary tool with a rolled sandpaper bit on the end to clean up the bore inside the hole where the spindle pin was. Once I ran it through a few times it looked really good. I will know for sure once I test fit the new spindle pin. By far the best tool I learned about from this experience was the Acetone & ATF mix for a penetrating lubricant. PB Blaster cannot hold a candle to this stuff. Best off all, its super cheap to make a lot of it. I am going to find a bottle with a needle on the end so I can squirt it in to tight places.

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Well freaking done! Let me give you a couple of quick pointers based on some of my mistakes. First, the notch in the spindle pins is NOT in the center. Make sure you have them oriented the right way before installing. Then coat them liberally with anti-sieze compound in case you and/or the car are around in another 40 years and they need to be replaced again.

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  • 9 months later...

LH pin, in vise, full length tap tap tap - fell right out on the floor... think to myself what's the big deal..... RH one not so much, soaked 2 weeks in penetrating oil - made removal tool with bearing- no, cut pin to remove hub from LCA - BFH, no - heat - BFH, no - finally took it to welding/machine shop that specializes in directional drilling eqpt repair, left it there for a few weeks - today stopped by, was going to pick it up one way or the other, and the feller had some time... 70 Ton press!! he said it was working at about 20TON!! pushed that seized/rusty little bugger right out of there. Moral - pay the man. Only 20 Bucks - Merry Christmas to me! Can't believe what a great feeling it is. Vented.... out

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Evening , I have to ask , why did u do them in the first place ? was there a pervasive issue that required you to go to all the effort and extra expense ? I asked the owner of the shop out in Surrey, British Columbia , that deal exclusively in Datsun and he replied that it would be one of the last, if ever jobs that he would want to do as the part , even after 40 years was very unlikely to make a performance difference in my Z or most any other Zs that r out there . I have followed all your threads , Hardway and it is obvious you take great detail in your resto . With all do respect , do you sometimes ask yourself if; what all you do is over the top ? I have at times fallen into the '' while i'm there '' trap , it it has been with some regret the decisions I have made . In the end it is strictly up to you what choices you make , I am just trying to understand why it all has to be changed , unless there is no other option .

z ya

Chris

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To change the bushings, I suppose is the primary reason...everything else just follows. I'm sure my car's original bushings are in less than ideal shape anymore, but do I want to change them? I dunno. Are replacement spindle pins still available from Nissan? From one the pics it looks like there was a brand spanking new one...or just get them from Motorsport Auto?

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