bartsscooterservice Posted February 10, 2013 Share #1 Posted February 10, 2013 When the car has completed the road safety check I'm planning on spraying all the rusty hollow places that the car has with some kind of spray to stop the rust process for most of the part. You guys have any advice on spots where I can go in to reach these places? Like the inner fenders rear, doglegs ( i believe that's how you call em? ) front frame rails etc..I saw this stuff from Eastwood, anyone got any experience with that?At home I also do have Valvoline ML, but maybe this Eastwood stuff or others are better for the job?BartInternal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle | Eastwood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey_z Posted February 10, 2013 Share #2 Posted February 10, 2013 In Canada we use products like RustCheck and Crown oil spray. Soak everything on a regular basis. Once or twice a year.These products creep and penetrate. If a product forms a coating you can lock rust under it. My Dutch Canadian 2 cents Casey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 10, 2013 Share #3 Posted February 10, 2013 That Eatwood spray tool looks neat, but I dont know if it will be any benifit with bad rusty sections. Its not easy to treat rust in those hard to get places.One thing for certain You should not paint it. That only Hides it and let it do its dirty work unnoticed.I have used a fish oil based treatment in the past, but it only lasted 6 months and then you had to retreat it. I think the crown oil spray is similar.Chas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartsscooterservice Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share #4 Posted February 10, 2013 Thanks guys. That eastwood kit you get the 1 meter flexibele spray nozzle, I also have that with the Valvoline ML can. I sprayed some Valvoline ML here on a very rusty test plate, I wil check what it has done tomorrow. It seems to bite into the rust and form a layer on top of it. I'll try anything I can to stop/slow down that cancer process from within Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartsscooterservice Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share #5 Posted February 10, 2013 That Eatwood spray tool looks neat, but I dont know if it will be any benifit with bad rusty sections. Its not easy to treat rust in those hard to get places.One thing for certain You should not paint it. That only Hides it and let it do its dirty work unnoticed.I have used a fish oil based treatment in the past, but it only lasted 6 months and then you had to retreat it. I think the crown oil spray is similar.ChasYeah, I heard other people talking about dumping all kinds of oil lubricants into the inner panels, but I'm not sure what to think of that, since they have special products for the job like ML and Dinitrol and so? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikes Z car Posted February 10, 2013 Share #6 Posted February 10, 2013 Here is an old thread on spraying inside the front frame rails, the dogleg and the front half of the rear wheel wells from the inside the car. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/40048-two-frame-rails-tc-rod-there-floor-between-them.html There may be others, this one I remember because I posted to it. The Transtar wand I used in that post is stiff and when I removed the finisher behind the driver's seat and sprayed back towards the rear wheel as described in that thread I found out later that the wand went up towards the roof but likely still did some good for the wheel well. With further removal of inside finishers I will be able to do further spraying with Transtar amber to get areas I missed before. See picture, I apologize to whoever has this car I can't give credit as I don't have a name saved with it. I had hoped the wand was going to go over the wheel well arch as pictured here but to do that additional finishers need to be removed I believe. I will get to that area over the wheel well later with more spray. Hope this is useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 10, 2013 Share #7 Posted February 10, 2013 Here is an old thread on spraying inside the front frame rails, the dogleg and the front half of the rear wheel wells from the inside the carThats a good thread, lots of info/ideas to think about. Thanks Mike.I never really thought much about doing the inside of the rails and such, but since Bart started this post ive been enlightened. Mmm something else for the "things to do list"Chas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikes Z car Posted February 10, 2013 Share #8 Posted February 10, 2013 You are welcome EuroDat. I'd love to make an animation of spraying the inside of the frame, front and back. Still have more to learn though about accessing the back frame rails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted February 11, 2013 Share #9 Posted February 11, 2013 Yeah, I heard other people talking about dumping all kinds of oil lubricants into the inner panels, but I'm not sure what to think of that, since they have special products for the job like ML and Dinitrol and so?I don't know what the products ML and Dinitol consist of but if they are not oil based I believe you are wasting your money. Oil sprays seal the existing rust for a period of time, six months to a year and a half and MUST be done every year while you own the car.Asphalt and rubberized sprays can do perfect sealing IF they are sprayed on perfectly sound clean dry metal that has been primed at the factory. If they are sprayed on any car that is not brand new they just seal in the existing rust and prevent oil sprays from doing their job. Having repaired rust on many 60's to 80's cars I can say that I curse the owner that let some salesman sell him asphalt/rubberized spray. I always think about the life of the car, there will always be another owner in the future after me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwarner Posted February 11, 2013 Share #10 Posted February 11, 2013 Corrosion in aviation is almost as bad as on Datsuns due to the dissimilar metals used in aircraft constuction. They have long used a material created by Boeing called Boeshield T-9 Corrosion Protectant. It displaces water and leaves a waxy coating for long term protection. Here is a link to a supplier:BOESHIELD T-9 CORROSION PROTECTANT from Aircraft SpruceThey also have several corrosion control products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartsscooterservice Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share #11 Posted February 11, 2013 Interesting.. @ grannynot: Valvoline ML they claim for this purpose.. well this is how it looked liked on a piece of rusty metal after 12 hours: It seems to be a very thin layer over the rust, but if it does the job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartsscooterservice Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share #12 Posted February 11, 2013 Corrosion in aviation is almost as bad as on Datsuns due to the dissimilar metals used in aircraft constuction. They have long used a material created by Boeing called Boeshield T-9 Corrosion Protectant. It displaces water and leaves a waxy coating for long term protection. Here is a link to a supplier:BOESHIELD T-9 CORROSION PROTECTANT from Aircraft SpruceThey also have several corrosion control products.Seems some pretty good stuff, wasn't WD40 made for the same purpose? Displace water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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