Hi,

Just thought I'd add a comment or two for what they're worth:

For internal coverage I used Eastwood's, 'Metal Protect', a Zinc Chromate sprayed inside the rails etc via the 18' wand that is provided. As such, I applied it generously and used 3 cans.

For external coverage where there is no wear and tear, and hard to access I used, 'Fluid Film'. It goes on nicely straight out of the can or with the Eastwood wand I've already mentioned. This consumed 2 cans. For easily accessed areas such as the floor pans I used POR15 over raw metal. A little POR15 goes a long way - I used less than 1 pint.

For external coverage where there is wear and tear I used Eastwood's, 'Rubberized Undercoat Aerosol' over a coat of POR15. This consumed 4 cans.

Products like Fluid Film require repeated/periodic applications - no question

John, is no doubt correct in his 'rant on rust' above, but it's hard to stand back and do nothing to attempt to slow it down. Also, there's satisfaction in just knowing you have tried.

Uhm here's a picture:

Yeah I'll see how it goes Def will post before and after the process...

I have one of these that I picked up at Costco for about $150 I think.

Again, rust inhibitors are effective on new, clean metal. They are not effective on rusty metal. If it makes you feel better to spray these products into 40+ year old, uninspected body cavities on your S30, got for it.

I certainly wouldn't spray any oil products in there. The Eastwood stuff appears to be made for rust surfaces to stop and prevent further rust.

@ bryan

the scope allready came in handy on the doors

This is a pic of my daily driver.

It was clean in the morning.

One day's worth of pure salt build up.:sick:

Oil treatments are an industry here and make a huge difference in a vehicle's condition.

My Honda Pilot gets treated regularly and is like new after 8 salty winters.

It would be wise to avoid such weather with you Z as much as possible. That Ford has corrosion resistance that the Z will never have no matter what. If you have to drive your Z in such weather probably wise to flush everything with fresh water.

Don't worry it is high and dry till spring in my little shop.

To keep a vehicle for a long period of time takes a lot of extra maintenance in the winter.

You gents may want to take a read of my website. I've been doing restorations and rust repair for quite a while. Maybe partly due to my having a degree in science I decided to look into it from a technical standpoint and have tested and reported on many of the top rust products, such as POR15, Phosphoric Acid Solutions and Eastwood's offerings, including their Inner Frame Coating (with the long tube applicator).

The long and short of it, is that surface rust CAN be nearly stopped for quite a while. Phosphoric Acid (Ospho, Naval Jelly, Metal Ready) chemically changed Iron Oxide (rust) into Ferric Phosphate, an inert substance. POR15 is a humidity cured sealant paint that stops air and moisture from getting back at the metal. Wax and oils also keep moisture and Oxygen at bay.

Red Iron (III) oxide + phosphoric acid yields black ferric phosphate + water.

Check my site if you have a minute and look under the link "Rust Products".

Cheers!

Edited February 26, 201312 yr by e-tek

Hi e-tek,

I visited your site as you suggested - Thanks for sharing your years of experience and subsequent insight.

Cheers,

George

Just a quick example of an untreated 10year old Chevy pickup in my brothers shop.

This is the frame and what's left of the rocker panel.

Posting this to show what we deal with in the great white north:cry:

Also where a vehicle spends its life is important info if you want to purchase.

The box on this truck was so rusty they are replacing it with a better one from the wreckers.

The oil treatments we use and lots of washing prevent a lot of this type of rust damage.

Casey

You gents may want to take a read of my website. I've been doing restorations and rust repair for quite a while. Maybe partly due to my having a degree in science I decided to look into it from a technical standpoint and have tested and reported on many of the top rust products, such as POR15, Phosphoric Acid Solutions and Eastwood's offerings, including their Inner Frame Coating (with the long tube applicator).

The long and short of it, is that surface rust CAN be nearly stopped for quite a while. Phosphoric Acid (Ospho, Naval Jelly, Metal Ready) chemically changed Iron Oxide (rust) into Ferric Phosphate, an inert substance. POR15 is a humidity cured sealant paint that stops air and moisture from getting back at the metal. Wax and oils also keep moisture and Oxygen at bay.

Red Iron (III) oxide + phosphoric acid yields black ferric phosphate + water.

Check my site if you have a minute and look under the link "Rust Products".

Cheers!

Where's the best place to buy POR-15?

Hi Bryan,

I purchased my POR products online direct from the company. The company has a great website which really does a great job explaining their various products. Additionally, if you do need any help, contact 'support' and you will be amazed how fast you get a response. I give them an A+.

Cheers,

George