clutch fork won't move

[Ben's Z]

Ok I leveraged my 18" prybar against the fork and got the slave cylinder installed. Fork is now about half way between front and back as you can see. Pedal is stiffer but this is a stage 1 clutch. "Feels" like clutch is "right there", not sure if I need to adjust or I was able to force that slave cylinder on with the prybar so the clutch is technically engaged? Thoughts?

[beermanpete]

If you had to force the slave cylinder on in the manner you describe I suspect your clutch is being held in the released position and will not drive the car. You really should take the engine and/or transmission out and find out why it is behaving the way it is.

Edited February 13, 2013 by beermanpete

[EuroDat]

Cc

Which collar would I use?

I not sure which collar you now have, but it sounds like you have the longer one. If you open the transmission link in post#8 and scroll down to the clutch forks. You probably have the left one in the right photo. Its 28mm from were the fork fingers sit to the back of the bearing. The right one is 24mm. You could ask the company that supplied the clutch for info on which collar to use.

I think, but not certain of it, that they changed from 280z to 280zx, but that could be onlt the turbo model. It the clutch is for the 280ZX then that could be where your problem is.

Chas

[olzed]

I had a similar problem, and simply made up a shorter thrust rod for the slave. Worked for me.

[EuroDat]

I had a similar problem, and simply made up a shorter thrust rod for the slave. Worked for me.

I knew a brickies labourer that had exactly the opposite problem. He had both collars and used the short collar where he needed the long one. To solve the problem he just made a longer rod for the slave cylinder. Only problem was the clutch fork hit the housing before the clutch was completly disengaged. You could only push the clucth pedal 3/4"down. After a test run grinding gears, he had to pull it back out. Talk about bad luck, but he wasnt all that bright...

[Ben's Z]

I have a 2+2/Turbo throwout bearing collar on the way. Pulling the trans with ZCurves this weekend and reinstalling.

[75mt280z]

Has anyone figured this out? I had the same problem with the stock clutch. It just stopped working. I started with replacing both cylinders, nothing changed. I then dropped the tranny and installed new pilot bearing, clutch, and throw out bearing, I know I reinstalled the clutch fork correctly, cause I triple checked. Put it back together and it still wouldn't move. What the hell is wrong?

[Mark Maras]

35 minutes ago, 75mt280z said:

Has anyone figured this out? I had the same problem with the stock clutch. It just stopped working. I started with replacing both cylinders, nothing changed. I then dropped the tranny and installed new pilot bearing, clutch, and throw out bearing, I know I reinstalled the clutch fork correctly, cause I triple checked. Put it back together and it still wouldn't move. What the hell is wrong?

 Define, "stopped working." Won't engage? Won't disengage? Did the throw out bearing slide on the collar easily when you replaced it? Worn collar causing the bearing to bind?

[75mt280z]

4 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 Define, "stopped working." Won't engage? Won't disengage? Did the throw out bearing slide on the collar easily when you replaced it? Worn collar causing the bearing to bind?

Before I had replaced anything, everything had run fine. One day the clutch pedal lost all its pressure and the clutch fork was stuck in the disengaged position. Replaced everything in the clutch system except the fork. And it is still stuck in the same position. Yes when I had the tranny out, the collar and fork and bearing all moved on the input sleeve with ease. 

[siteunseen]

Maybe remove the rubber dust boot and look to see if it popped off the ball it uses as a stop?

[Zed Head]

7 hours ago, 75mt280z said:

Before I had replaced anything, everything had run fine. One day the clutch pedal lost all its pressure and the clutch fork was stuck in the disengaged position. Replaced everything in the clutch system except the fork. And it is still stuck in the same position.

To be sure and clear - you pressed the pedal to the floor, put the transmission in gear, but the car did not move when you released the pedal?  I think that maybe you meant force but said pressure.  Pressure is what's inside the cylinders, force is what pushes against the bottom of your foot when it's on on the clutch pedal.

It's not clear, because there would be no reason to replace the cylinders if the clutch was stuck in the disengaged position.  The clutch engages the engine with the transmission.  It's kind of counterintuitive to interact with the clutch in order to disengage it, so easy to get the words backward..  You engage your foot with the clutch pedal to disenage the engine from the transmission.

Anyway, if it's stuck disengaged that would be a clutch mechanical problem, or a stuck collar, not a hydraulic system problem.

Just trying to figure out what exactly is going on.

Edit - consider also a broken shaft in the transmission.  Maybe the clutch is working fine.

Edited August 12, 2017 by Zed Head

[Diseazd]

Sounds to me like you've ordered the right collar.....unless they sent you the wrong clutch. I just installed a 240mm flywheel and an Exedy Stage I comp clutch. I used the 2+2/ turbo collar and she works like a dream (it'll really build up your left leg lol). It's easier to pull the tranny. When you get the new collar, use this test.....if the measurement comes out like in my drawing, you'll be good to go and you'll love the old girl once more. 

Edited August 12, 2017 by Diseazd