Fitting 240Z bumpers and Valences to a 280Z

[tamo3]

Mine is '72 240z bumper.

[nissanthanh]

Tamo, Thats a neat job you have done to get the 240Z brackets to fit.

I stayed with the original shock mount holes. I can't use the 240Z brackets because the shock mounting is lower and further to the centre. Ordered a 240Z air dam and I already have the turn signals from the 240Z. Next is find a 240Z grill.

Which year is the bumper you are using? I know that somewhere in 73 they started making the the 240Z bumper compressable. I have not seen one, so not sure how it changed.

Chas

Eurodat, so are you saying the 1973 mounting brackets might make the 71 bumper fit onto a 280z?

I have 1971 split bumper and it looks like the 1973 looks bent, as opposed to the 70-72.

Edited March 6, 2014 by nissanthanh

[EuroDat]

Im not sure where the mounts are positioned on the 71 bumper. The fiberglass bumper has long slots which give you plenty of room for adjustment. I still had to set a 15mm offset to reach the slots. The original bumpers don't have as much "adjustability" and require more thought when making your brackets. The offset in the bracket will be a lot more if you don't modify the frame.

If you do go with the original brackets you will need to remove the 280Z bumper shock supports and the front turn signal mounts. Then you need the 240Z grill and turn signals under the bumper. You won't need the valences, the air-dam replaces them. I was toying with the idea of fitting the 240Z valences with a BRE spoiler, but the front subframe drops down too low and prevents mounting the center valence section.

It was tempting to go with the original 240Z mounts and Tamo's work makes it all the more tempting, but for now I opted for the "quick and dirty" reversable approach. Thats why I made my own brackets.

I might go the full mod with the ss harrington bumper, but that is a bit further down my to do list.

Chas

[Captain_Zeros]

I know that somewhere in 73 they started making the the 240Z bumper compressable. I have not seen one, so not sure how it changed.

Did somebody say 1973 bumper? Not the best picture, but here's a looksy of mine.

[hr369]

I like what this guy did. He kept the 280z grill and valance panel and just

built his own grill below using parts of another grill

[EuroDat]

Looks like he used the original 280Z grill under the bumper for the lower two runners and build it up with 4 runners from a 240Z grill. I like the neat and tidy result.

Chas

[bartsscooterservice]

Why don't you guys just buy a 240Z ? Kidding... nice work there !

[EuroDat]

Its been a while, but Im back at my 240Z bumper and airdam. I decided to leave the 280Z valance panel until I found all the parts needed to fit the air dam.

 

The biggest challenge was finding a 240Z grill that had not been run over by a truck. Now I have one thats really straight, but very grotty. It will be dismantled and the top runner will be changed to the 280Z so it will mount on the existing 280Z mounts. Thanks to HaZmat for that tip.

 

Now for the indicators and air dam. The indicators are not the best, but with some repairs they will do for now. If it all works well I may buy a set from Zcardepot.

This is what I started with.

 

 

The left lense was in pretty bad shape. The PO used a self tapping screw and broke the plastic. It also has a crack in the top section. I used some resin to repair the broken off section. Sprayed the screw with releasing agent so I could screw it out after the resin set.

 

 

Next was the bolts that hold the indicator unit in the body panel. One bolt was missing so I had to fabricate a new plate and get a bolt tack welded to it. (No photo of the two small tack welds on the bolt head).

 

 

The reflectors were in bad shape. The chrome foil was non existant and the steel back plate was badly rusted. I cleaned them up as best I could and gave the a couple of coats of primer. 

I was debating on using chrome spray paint of aluminium reflecting tape. Ended up trying the tape first and if it worked ok leave it at that. It reflects good enough for these old indicator units.

 

 

The indicators are now mounted in the airdam. The result is better than I expect from the old indicators.

I not impressed about the holes they cut for the indicators. The holes are too big and tapered to one end. The rubber gasket only just reaches it in some places. I also had to make L brackets so I could fit the lenses without pulling everthing out of shape.

 

 

Now to fit the air dam.

 

 

[jimbob_racing]

Very nice work.  I bought the exact same air dam from MSA and have yet to start on this project.  Finding a good solution to the bumper mounting has been taking some time.  All of the premade conversion mounts that I have bought on line have been total garbage.  I may just design something myself and pay the local fabrication shop to make them for me.

[CanTechZ]

Its been a while, but Im back at my 240Z bumper and airdam. I decided to leave the 280Z valance panel until I found all the parts needed to fit the air dam.

 

The biggest challenge was finding a 240Z grill that had not been run over by a truck. Now I have one thats really straight, but very grotty. It will be dismantled and the top runner will be changed to the 280Z so it will mount on the existing 280Z mounts. Thanks to HaZmat for that tip.

 

Now for the indicators and air dam. The indicators are not the best, but with some repairs they will do for now. If it all works well I may buy a set from Zcardepot.

This is what I started with.

 

Original Valances.jpg

 

The left lense was in pretty bad shape. The PO used a self tapping screw and broke the plastic. It also has a crack in the top section. I used some resin to repair the broken off section. Sprayed the screw with releasing agent so I could screw it out after the resin set.

 

Repair Lens.jpg

 

Next was the bolts that hold the indicator unit in the body panel. One bolt was missing so I had to fabricate a new plate and get a bolt tack welded to it. (No photo of the two small tack welds on the bolt head).

 

Repair Bolt-lug.jpg

 

The reflectors were in bad shape. The chrome foil was non existant and the steel back plate was badly rusted. I cleaned them up as best I could and gave the a couple of coats of primer. 

I was debating on using chrome spray paint of aluminium reflecting tape. Ended up trying the tape first and if it worked ok leave it at that. It reflects good enough for these old indicator units.

 

Repair Lens reflector.jpg

 

The indicators are now mounted in the airdam. The result is better than I expect from the old indicators.

I not impressed about the holes they cut for the indicators. The holes are too big and tapered to one end. The rubber gasket only just reaches it in some places. I also had to make L brackets so I could fit the lenses without pulling everthing out of shape.

 

Airdam.jpg

 

Now to fit the air dam.

 

 

 

Nice work Chas, I am just starting a similar repair to my left turn signal lens.  But I don't have much experience with plastic repairs, what type of resin did you use and what is the material that you shaped as the temporary mold, also what did you use as a release agent on the screw.  I was considering the exact method for repair but wasn't sure of the best material to use.

 

Mike

[EuroDat]

Nice work Chas, I am just starting a similar repair to my left turn signal lens.  But I don't have much experience with plastic repairs, what type of resin did you use and what is the material that you shaped as the temporary mold, also what did you use as a release agent on the screw.  I was considering the exact method for repair but wasn't sure of the best material to use.

 

Mike

Hi Mike,

 

I experimented with an old lens first and found Polyester resin had attached better to the old arcrylic and gave the best holding power. The Polyurethane let go easier.

 

You can find the polyester resin at hobby shops for around $10.00/kg. I found it at a local arts supplier for €8.00. The polyurethane is a lot more expensive at around €35.00 a liter.

I didn't use any coloring in the resin and its hard to notice on the outside.

 

The releasing agent costs around €15.00, but you can use silicone or teflon spray on the screw. I have tried both and they work just as good.

Just a quick spray, let it dry and wipe away any excess. Otherwise it can fill the threads in the small screw.

 

That black stuff was the most expensive . Playdoe for the local toy store at €1.50 a pot. I fashioned it into shape with a paddle pop stick and when it cured removed the playdoe and washed away any leftovers. Then filed it into shape and finished it with 500 and 800 emery paper.

 

Don't forget to rough up the surface wear the resin bonds to.

 

I used the Bick ArtSupplies resin in the centre photo.

 

Goodluck

Chas

[EuroDat]

All of the premade conversion mounts that I have bought on line have been total garbage.  I may just design something myself and pay the local fabrication shop to make them for me.

Hi Jim,

 

I know what you mean. Been there done that as well. I ended up making them first out of 50x2mm aluminium strip from a local hardware store and then out of stainless steel. The aluminium made it easy to drill and shape. You could do that and take them to a shop to duplicate in Stainless steel or coated/zinc plated steel.

 

Chas