Fitting 240Z bumpers and Valences to a 280Z

[SteveJ]

Very nice work.  I bought the exact same air dam from MSA and have yet to start on this project.  Finding a good solution to the bumper mounting has been taking some time.  All of the premade conversion mounts that I have bought on line have been total garbage.  I may just design something myself and pay the local fabrication shop to make them for me.

I ended up making my own for my 260Z. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2014/09/06/260z-air-dam-and-front-bumper/

It's not perfect, but it looks a lot better than with the old 260Z bumper.

[CanTechZ]

Hi Mike,

 

I experimented with an old lens first and found Polyester resin had attached better to the old arcrylic and gave the best holding power. The Polyurethane let go easier.

 

You can find the polyester resin at hobby shops for around $10.00/kg. I found it at a local arts supplier for €8.00. The polyurethane is a lot more expensive at around €35.00 a liter.

I didn't use any coloring in the resin and its hard to notice on the outside.

 

The releasing agent costs around €15.00, but you can use silicone or teflon spray on the screw. I have tried both and they work just as good.

Just a quick spray, let it dry and wipe away any excess. Otherwise it can fill the threads in the small screw.

 

That black stuff was the most expensive . Playdoe for the local toy store at €1.50 a pot. I fashioned it into shape with a paddle pop stick and when it cured removed the playdoe and washed away any leftovers. Then filed it into shape and finished it with 500 and 800 emery paper.

 

Don't forget to rough up the surface wear the resin bonds to.

 

I used the Bick ArtSupplies resin in the centre photo.

 

Goodluck

Chas

 

Thanks Chas, this info will definitely help, and I have couple of extra lenses from a parts car to experiment with.  If all goes well I may end up with a pair of decent complete front turn signals to sell as well as fix my own.

[jimbob_racing]

Thanks for the suggestions guys!

[EuroDat]

Removed the 280Z valance today and tested the Air-Dam. Im using the 240Z - 260Z Type 1 fibreglass airdam without the airducts from MSA. (Part nr. 50-1401).

 

There are some obsticles to tackle before it can be fully mounted.

1: The top section is hitting the bracket wear the lower outer mounts for the grill mounted.

 

2:The 240Z grill is also hitting the old 280Z indicator supports. Im now debating what to do there.

- Remove the old 280Z indicator supports and make new brackets for the 240Z grill or;

- Replace the top bar in the grill with the top bar from the 280Z grill and check fit again.

 

3: The 280Z indicators have different buld adaptor for the lens housing. Now I have to try and find some 240Z indicator harnesses and splice them into my plug connectors.

I have a spare harness for the rear taillights. I can use the turn signal cables in them. 

 

If  anyone has a spare set of harnesses they want to sell. I would like to buy them.

 

Chas

 

 

 

 

[EuroDat]

I made a little more progress on the airdam this afternoon. The airdam needed some trimming along the back edge to clear the frame where the 280Z lower (two bar) grill mounted.

I took 20mm off the back edge, starting 50mm in from each side. After that it fitted much better. Clamped it into position and drilled all the holes.

I also had to drill out a nut in each headlight bucket. The 280Z Valances have a U section cut out to clear these nuts. They are spot welded on the back and were used to hold a trim between the bumper and grill to fill the gap.

 

 

 

Now to start on the grill. I think I will have some interference problems with the old indicator mounts. Looking at the 280Z grill, the bars will have to come forward to clear. That might couse problems with the bonnet when it opens. The bonnet tilts downwards, but clears the grill because the grill is set back.

 

 

Anyway the first step is to reassemble the 240Z grill with the 280Z grill parts. I replaced the top section with the 280Z bar to mount it on the 280Z brackets. Them swapped the bottom two bar so I could use the 280Z bumper mounts. They are about 100mm further inwards and don't clear the 240Z grill.

I was tempted to start cutting all the structure for the 280Z bumper shocks, but I can try this without cutting or modifying the 240Z grill. It is only assembled with 280Z grill parts.

 

 

 

It will be a couple of days before I can get back to it. Them I will be fitting the grill.

 

Cheers

Chas

[2050-Z]

 > The height difference was more than I expected. The 240Z is so much higher that the centre section between the valences can not be fitted because the chassis drops down to low.

 

I too am/was planning to use the 3-piece 240z stock valence + turn signals on my 280z.

 

I'm currently in the process of paint stripping my 240z piece. Have not yet tried a test fit.

 

Do the corner pieces fit correctly on the 280z chassis?

 

I knew there would be a height issue in the middle. I was planning on some kind of butchering of the middle valence piece to fit around obstructions, then hiding it with a 240z BRE-style front spoiler.

 

I'm curious if anyone has succeeded in this project. Not a fan of the MSA front air dam unfortunately.

[EuroDat]

> The height difference was more than I expected. The 240Z is so much higher that the centre section between the valences can not be fitted because the chassis drops down to low.

 

I too am/was planning to use the 3-piece 240z stock valence + turn signals on my 280z.

 

I'm currently in the process of paint stripping my 240z piece. Have not yet tried a test fit.

 

Do the corner pieces fit correctly on the 280z chassis?

 

I knew there would be a height issue in the middle. I was planning on some kind of butchering of the middle valence piece to fit around obstructions, then hiding it with a 240z BRE-style front spoiler.

 

I'm curious if anyone has succeeded in this project. Not a fan of the MSA front air dam unfortunately.

Hi 2050-Z,

That was my thoughts exactly. I wanted the 240Z valance and even bought a full set (the blue ones). I stripped all the blue paint and started fitting them, but the problems with the lower 280Z frame were just too big a "show stopper". You can see the height difference in post 4, 3rd photo.

You would have to hack the centre piece up a lot to get it to fit around the frame and the frame will always be visible even with a bre spoiler.

I thought about cutting the side valance panels and adding a V section so I could tilt the centre section downwards to cover the frame. I might even try it one day. For now I just took Tamo's advice and bought a airdam from MSA.

I have some more photos showing the differences when mounted on the car. I can post them if you want to se it.

Chas

[2050-Z]

Yeah, any other pics you have would be useful for myself and others planning this swap.

 

Exactly what pieces are it that get in the way? Are any of them removable?

 

I assume someone must have completed this full 240z > 280z front end swap in the past. Where are his pics and thread?

[CanTechZ]

 

....I assume someone must have completed this full 240z > 280z front end swap in the past. Where are his pics and thread?

 

Not a full valence but, I really like the job HaZmatt did .....

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49193-my-datsun-280z-rustoration/page-20

 

post 398

[2050-Z]

His seems to be an MSA air damn, similar to what the OP here is doing?

[tamo3]

Hi Chas,

 

You made great progress!

Can't wait to see fitting the grille on the car.

 

Regards,

tamo3

[EuroDat]

Thanks Tamo,

 

It was your advice/comments in post #5 the convinced me to go with the 240Z air-dam. Ive had the air-dam since november last year, but been too slack to fit it.

 

One of the long bolts (M3x230mm) on the 240Z grill broke off just above the nut, so I had to get a section of M3 thread brassed onto it. I hope to have some time tomorrow so I can start doing the adjustments and fitting it.

 

 

Hi 2050-Z,

 

I have never seen a full 240Z valence swap on a 280Z. I think the front frame section scares most people off.

I don't know exactly when they dropped the front frame, I think it went in stages. 240Z was almost straight across.

Not sure about the 260Z. They still have the 240Z style valence panels with turn signal indicators so I presume they are somewhere between the 240Z and the 280Z.

The 280Z has a deeper radiator and that is why the frame drops down so low. Its about 80 to 100mm under the 240Z center vlaence panel. See photo.

 

 

The two side sections bolt on, but you have to remove a nut that is spot welded to the back of the headlight bucket. Its there for securing the Sight Shield Assembly panel. Its the red panel in these photos with the dog ear on the end. I was using it in combination with the 280Z grill because the 280Z grill has 2 bars less and a large gap behind the 240Z bumper.

 

 

Here are some photos of the 240Z valences mounted on the car. Can't find any photos of the center piece, but it was never mounted. To fit it you would have to cut a large piece out of the rear of the center piece. The back third if I can remember orrectly. I don't know if the BRE spoiler would still fit after such an aggresive trimming. I couldn't figure out a way to modify it without making it look butt ugly.

 

 

Chas

 

PS: HaZmat has the Xeon PU airdam with the brake vents; MSA P/N: 50-1411 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1411

I wanted the version without the vents, but MSA only has it in fibreglass. It doesn't have the deflection problems the PU airdam have. Although you could hit a speed bump, break it off and then run over it and doing all kinds of damage in the process......