This will be a tough one: Lock pin for striking rod of F4W71B

[DoctorMuffn]

It's the lock pin which holds the striking lever to the striking rod. See this pdf pg 4:

http://www.jdmgallery.com/wp-content/Datsun/70-78/1978_280z_FSM/MT%20Manual%20Transmission.pdf

I had trouble getting it out as fastd did from his post of a couple weeks ago, however I handed the whole assembly off to a technician friend before I cut anything up. I did try drilling into the "head" of the pin and even a small hole through the lever itself all in hopes to relieve some tension of the hold the pin had on the surrounding parts. So here I am hoping (reasonably I believe) that the lever with its little hole is still reusable but I'm looking for a new lock pin. Anyone know how or where I can get one?

These things have also been called transmission control or shift rod/shift linkage. They're labeled correctly with the terms above and confirmed in the pdf manual linked. Unfortunately the pdf is more accurate but different from the dealer book I'm using for my '73 S30; otherwise it would have indicated to me that a pin instead of bolt was holding everything together and saved a bunch of confusion.

[fastd]

now that i know how it comes out i feel like i could get it out next time. the advice i received about the hand tools i think would work if i hadnt bang on it beforehand.

i ordered another pin from nissanpartszone.com using the 1979 280zx. - no problem. i think alot of the parts interchange.

[fastd]

now that i know how it comes out i feel like i could get it out next time. the advice i received about the hand tools i think would work if i hadnt bang on it beforehand.

i ordered another pin from nissanpartszone.com using the 1979 280zx. - no problem. i think alot of the parts interchange.

[fastd]

by the way, dont be too quick to cut the striking rod; nissan doesnt make them any more and nobody sells them. if you do cut it make sure you get a clean cut so that you can weld it back together. i got lucky when i welded mine back - somehow it was straight enough to use again.

[DoctorMuffn]

I'm seeing this:

Part Detail

Which part did you order? I can't find the pin I need, 32844E, in the listing.

And thanks for such a quick response. I've got everything apart in my garage and it's my daily.

[DoctorMuffn]

"I called my local Nissan and gave them the parts code 32844E - that translates to Nissan part #32917-E930A (this part replaced 32917-E9301)."

Thanks to fastd and his quote above excerpted from one of my private messages I've got this pin on order. Nissan does have them somewhere in the country and will get them to you. I paid $4.13 (SoCal) for mine which is a steal considering if I couldn't get a replacement I'd have to put hours into fixing my old one or using a bolt instead. And the bolt idea seemed all kinds of wrong.

[DoctorMuffn]

I finished the rebuild. It's mostly good. I've been rolling around on it for a few days now. I get a whir on decel from first gear that gets more pronounced when I disengage the clutch. Not sure what it is, but I'm not really excited about getting back into it.

I'm responding mainly to close up this thread with a solution. I feel like I've asked questions and not come back to the threads I've started to say "I won!" Thanks, ClassicZcar.

[240260280z]

You can try a redline transmission fluid. Their MTL and MT90 are good.

http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/MTL%20and%20MT-90%20Tech%20Info.pdf

[DoctorMuffn]

Sweet! Thanks for the advice, Blue. This line from your link was interesting:

"Eliminates gear whine and rattle at high temperatures"

I don't really have a shifting problem and the whirr or whine doesn't seem to be temperature based. But I'll give a better listen next time I'm in it to see if there's a difference in intensity cold to hot.

I've got Walmart Supertech full synthetic 75W-140 in it right now. Is this a bad oil?

[LeonV]

I've got Walmart Supertech full synthetic 75W-140 in it right now. Is this a bad oil?

You should be fine as long as it's an API GL-4 grade oil.

[DoctorMuffn]

I'll look into that.

[LeonV]

I took a second and looked up that Wally-World gear oil you're using. It's an API GL-5.

You're slowly destroying your syncros...

EDIT: GL-4 vs. GL-5: http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf

Edited March 15, 2013 by LeonV