Posted February 18, 201312 yr comment_415378 I pulled my distributor to change the leaky gaskets at the distributor and oil pump (part of a bigger job of replacing the clutch, oil pan gasket, seals). Anyway, I think I got the oil pump and distributor right but I think I may be off a tooth (or two).The car started but just barely; no backfires or funny sounds; but I couldn't keep it alive. I checked TDC and its pointing to the #1 spark plug wire...Question:Can I pull the distributor with out upsetting the oil shaft? Can I just lift the distributor and drop it back down +/- a tooth? It seems like the shaft only goes in one of two ways, either right or 180 degrees off - is that correct? To save me doing this a couple of times, any way of knowing whether I am "ahead" a tooth or "behind" a tooth.Also, I checked the wire schematic to the distributor - only shows wiring to coil; but there seems to be a disconnected yellow wire that runs from the distributor or somewhere around the distributor, through the harness around the radiator and back to the fire wall on the spark plug side of the engine - any idea what this might be to? is it related to my starting problem?Anything else that you guys can think of?Thanks,Fastd Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45742-distributor-help/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 18, 201312 yr comment_415379 Make sure you're on TDC of the compression stroke. If not, you could be 180 degrees out. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45742-distributor-help/#findComment-415379 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 19, 201312 yr comment_415386 yellow wire is likely water temp sender wire. Bullet connector on the front of the upper rad hose housing. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45742-distributor-help/#findComment-415386 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 19, 201312 yr comment_415389 You can pull the distributor without upsetting the oil shaft no problem, and in fact it actually won't properly go in 180 degrees out because the key in the shaft is slightly off center. You can, however, put the distributor cap on the dizzy body 180 off though if yours isn't keyed (I have one that is and a spare that isn't, go figure). Only yellow wire in the vicinity on my '73 Z is a water temp sender like zKars just mentioned.Do you have access to a timing light? You can have a hard or non-start if your timing is way off.Edit: I don't think you're 180 out by the way, when I accidentally put the non-keyed dizzy cap on backwards 180 out it backfired and blew smoke out the intake and didn't even try and start, freaked me out pretty bad until I had my duh moment. Not impossible, but the first place I'd look is your timing if you're not getting misfiring. Edited February 19, 201312 yr by Captain_Zeros Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45742-distributor-help/#findComment-415389 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 19, 201312 yr Author comment_415391 thanks for the responses.I looked at the parts diagrams and I am remembering how the distributor goes in...it doesn't seem like I can be off a "tooth", can I? the shaft only goes in one way and it is supposed to be "11:25"; it can't be "10:30" or "1:00", can it?If I am not 180 degrees out, then, with respect to timing, does it have to be adjustable within the normal timing adjustment sweep?Is it more likely that I was not really at TDC when I put it in, and that may be why I may be off 15-20 degrees? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45742-distributor-help/#findComment-415391 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 19, 201312 yr comment_415393 When you install the oil pump shaft, you need to be at TDC of the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. When the number 1 piston is TDC, both cam lobes on number 1 will be pointing up (valves closed). If you installed it at TDC exhaust stroke, you'll be 180degrees out. When you are at TDC compression stroke, the half moon should be at 11:25 with the small half moon forward. Get the engine TDC compression stroke......pull the distributor........check for the 11:25 location and make sure the little half moon faces forward. If not, pull the oil pump and try again. Edited February 19, 201312 yr by Diseazd Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45742-distributor-help/#findComment-415393 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 19, 201312 yr comment_415409 I pulled my distributor to change the leaky gaskets at the distributor and oil pump (part of a bigger job of replacing the clutch, oil pan gasket, seals). Anyway, I think I got the oil pump and distributor right but I think I may be off a tooth (or two).The car started but just barely; no backfires or funny sounds; but I couldn't keep it alive. I checked TDC and its pointing to the #1 spark plug wire...Question:Can I pull the distributor with out upsetting the oil shaft? Can I just lift the distributor and drop it back down +/- a tooth? It seems like the shaft only goes in one of two ways, either right or 180 degrees off - is that correct? To save me doing this a couple of times, any way of knowing whether I am "ahead" a tooth or "behind" a tooth.Also, I checked the wire schematic to the distributor - only shows wiring to coil; but there seems to be a disconnected yellow wire that runs from the distributor or somewhere around the distributor, through the harness around the radiator and back to the fire wall on the spark plug side of the engine - any idea what this might be to? is it related to my starting problem?Anything else that you guys can think of?Thanks,FastdIf you pulled the oil pump off you have to bring the engine to TDC (it will look like THIS ) and then you reinstall the shaft like like THIS . If that is done the car should be "dead" on. Now make sure your distributor is lined up correctly and goes in nice and snug. If you pulled just the distributor off then its not installed correctly - from your post I'm assuming the oil pump came off too. Hope that helpsJanHere's another look at the motor at TDC just incase the first one is not clear enough (TADA) Edited February 19, 201312 yr by Pomorza Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45742-distributor-help/#findComment-415409 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 19, 201312 yr comment_415433 Can I pull the distributor with out upsetting the oil shaft? Can I just lift the distributor and drop it back down +/- a tooth? It seems like the shaft only goes in one of two ways, either right or 180 degrees off - is that correct? After you have bolted up the oil pump with the drive shaft in place, it is impossible to get the distributor installed in an incorrect position. There is only one position for it. The distributor drive tang will only go in one way.To fix a "one tooth off" problem, you have to pull the oil pump out the bottom, remove it's driving shaft (again out the bottom), rotate it one tooth, and then put everything back together again.You cannot fix "one tooth off" from up top. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45742-distributor-help/#findComment-415433 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 19, 201312 yr Author comment_415459 Captain,Thanks for that.I pulled the valve cover to confirm TDC; I had it right.However, I pulled the distributor and found that the position was around "1:15" with the small moon facing the back. Here is the dumbest question of the day: as I move the distributor shaft to match with the 11:25, it looks like the rotor will not be pointing to the #1 wire. When I installed it before, I positioned the distributor so that the rotor would be pointing to the #1, and the shaft wound up at 1:15. What part of this puzzle am I not understanding? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45742-distributor-help/#findComment-415459 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 19, 201312 yr Author comment_415463 "1:15" doesn't really make sense; call it "1:35" Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45742-distributor-help/#findComment-415463 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 19, 201312 yr comment_415466 The top of the shaft that you see when looking down the distributor has gear teeth on the bottom end. It's those teeth that can be off the mark. There are actually marks on the oil pump parts and shaft also that need to line up before you install the pump and shaft (quill?). Described in the EL chapter of the FSM. 11:25 is the correct "time", also. Described in the same place in the FSM.Datsun 280Z Oil Pump L28ENote, I could be wrong, I've never had my oil pump off. Sometimes I get involved just to figure things out for my own future use. Edited February 19, 201312 yr by Zed Head Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45742-distributor-help/#findComment-415466 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 19, 201312 yr Author comment_415497 I rotated the oil shaft so now the small moon faces forward but it's still pointed to "1:35"; i tried to drop in towards "11:25" but the only way the pump fits back in is at "1:35"; I don't seem to be able to rotate one tooth at a time - does this seem accurate? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45742-distributor-help/#findComment-415497 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Create an account or sign in to comment