Cowl - Top Inner rust repair

[wal280z]

Blue - You are correct, sir.

My windshelid in my daily driver (Chevy S10) was leaking, I found some +20yr old seam sealer in the garage. worked like a charm!

Attached is a pic of the can (I doubt if the label is the same, but I'd bet they still make this stuff)

Pretty sure I saw a similar seam sealer product from Eastwood.

I think the stuff I used was intended to be sprayed on, but I used a brush and allowed it to flow into the areas that were leaking. It's been over 6 months and no leaks!

I'm sure the stuff can be painted over, but as so far I'm just tickled it's not leaking!

[bartsscooterservice]

applied a coat of rubber sealant, and it's drying, will take a while to dry I guess, the black is allready ok.

[bartsscooterservice]

Sorry didn't take anymore pictures. But awaiting the result...

[jwtaylor]

I'm watching this thread as I have a persistent leak at the firewall on the passengers side. The factory seam sealer in the seam where the bottom panel connects to the firewall is loose. I have dug it out and resealed the drivers side with good results. I can also see the big glob of black sealer by the fresh air intake and down that side. I need to remove that cover to see it better.

[bpilati]

You likely have rust through there. I'd get on that.

[bartsscooterservice]

We had some heavy rain here last week, but haven't seen wet floors, they are dry. So I assume it's working..

[LinParkFL]

Excellent thread here - wish I had found it a few months ago - I have the same leaking issue on a 1978 280Z - here is a picture with the cowl removed on the intake area - looks to me like the shroud that covers the intake vent is part of the frame - anyone seen something like this and can recommend an easy way to proceed forward to stop the leaking around this? Thanks!

Edited December 9, 2013 by LinParkFL

[bartsscooterservice]

Look to my pictures above. You have to remove the paint with a wire brush, so you can see the spotwelds, and then drill them out. Then you can remove the cover that's over the intake vent and have more room to work. It's hard to reach on the area between the air intake tube and the firewall, but that's the most important spot. I used alot of patience, small screw drivers to scrape of dirt and a work light.

You also need to remove the wiper motor.

[GraphiteZ]

I just want to share some info. That section of cowl covering the vent duct is solid on his 78(part of cowl) 75 and older had this section spot welded to the cowl and mounted from underneath(seperate piece) they used seam sealer for the mating joint.

[LinParkFL]

Thanks GraphiteZ - that is what I was afraid of - what are my options at this point? I'd prefer not to do any cutting if possible.

[GraphiteZ]

Thanks GraphiteZ - that is what I was afraid of - what are my options at this point? I'd prefer not to do any cutting if possible.

If you drop down your blower motor housing you can seal it from the inside as a temp fix. It is most likely going to be rotted in this area,if you want to fix it properly you will have to cut it all out and weld in new metal and re-apply seam sealer around the duct tube. Do you have any welding skills? If not i would recommend getting it done at a fab shop. It is really easy to get in over your head working with thin metal. I am currently at this stage on my car right now,i had to cut the cowl on top to gain access to the duct tube. Edited December 10, 2013 by GraphiteZ

[LinParkFL]

I figured sealing it on the inside wouldn't really do me much good since the water would still be getting inside something it shouldn't. I did some welding back in shop class in school like 30 years ago (enjoyed it quite a bit actually) but haven't touched it again since. Any recommendations on a welding setup that I could use for a project like this - what are you using for your setup GraphiteZ?