Ugh...brake line woes

[ksechler]

I single flared my brake lines!

Some of you out there are probably shaking your heads and thinking, "amateur". You're absolutely right! For those of you that are thinking, "so what", you need to double flare the brake lines! I discovered my mistake by creating an EPA site in my garage when I tried to fill the system and the fluid leaked out onto the floor.

Running the brake lines was a big enough pain. Doing it again because of inadequately preparing for doing the job right was even worse.

So have a laugh at my expense. Hopefully by posting my shame I may be able to prevent another amateur from making the same mistake.

[Captain Obvious]

Haha! Nice.

I won't make that mistake, but I promise I'll make one equally embarrassing. Not sure I'll tell you about it, but I do promise to make one in your honor.

Probably tomorrow...

[SteveJ]

I'm having some issues, too, after I changed my master cylinder & booster. I couldn't get the fitting for the rear brakes to seal. I just ordered a new master cylinder with the hope that I haven't messed up the threads on the brake tube fitting.

[Hardway]

It is situations like these that clearly illustrate the need for a air or hyd. powered flaring tool that can get in to tight spaces. I know they make tools for on car service but they are big and likely not going let you access the line properly to work on it while on the car. Plus they are $$$. Time to put our thinking caps on and come up with a solution.

[ksechler]

It is situations like these that clearly illustrate the need for a air or hyd. powered flaring tool that can get in to tight spaces. I know they make tools for on car service but they are big and likely not going let you access the line properly to work on it while on the car. Plus they are $$$. Time to put our thinking caps on and come up with a solution.

Actually I put my blunt force labor hat on. I pulled the bad lines, properly flared them and have them reinstalled. I have filled and bled the system and it seems to be holding ok. I have one that still may be an issue. I tightened it and it didn't appear to be leaking. I'll see if there are any drips on the floor tomorrow.

Now I just need to figure out how to get the system properly bled. I tried but I still have a spongy pedal that goes to the floor. Clearly not right, yet...

[SteveJ]

Did you bleed at the Master Cylinder?

I put in a new MC since I couldn't get the other to seal. This one seems to be holding fluid. My lovely brake bleeding assistant said the brakes felt strong after we bled them. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

[jonathanrussell]

Sorry to hear about your mistake. Doing a job that big twice is never fun. Can I ask what you decided to use for tubing? I am about to start the same project and am 99% sure I will use tubing from Fedhill. Also, what flaring tool are you using?

Edited February 25, 2013 by jonathanrussell

[ksechler]

Sorry to hear about your mistake. Doing a job that big twice is never fun. Can I ask what you decided to use for tubing? I am about to start the same project and am 99% sure I will use tubing from Fedhill. Also, what flaring tool are you using?

Do you have your car torn down or not. If it is together you will have to use multiple pieces because you won't be able to install a one piece line. For the first pass I used this:

Complete Metal Brake Line Kit Nissan Datsun 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1995 1996 | eBay

It is a generic brake line kit so don't be fooled where it says it is for a 240z.

To bend and flair I used a generic pair of tubing pliers and a hand held flare tool from Northern Tool. The pliers were ok but the flare tool was crap. For the second pass I bought 25' of tubing and a flare tool from Summit Racing. The tool was $200 but it does a great job.

K Tool Professional Brake Flaring Tool Kits 70081 - SummitRacing.com

[jonathanrussell]

Thanks for the info. As far as my car goes, the engine, suspension, drive train, fuel tank, and everything else under the car is removed and being refreshed.

FYI, your flare tool looks very similar to the Fedhill tool I am using.

Edited February 26, 2013 by jonathanrussell

[Richard McDonel]

ksechler,

Re-flaring probably wouldn't hurt my lines either, but with the ground-up resto I'm doing, I'll probably have to make new ones. I have the old ones off, and I tried to clean them up with paint stripper, solvent, and SOS pads, but they still look grubby. They really stand out against the backdrop of a freshly painted orange engine bay. If anyone knows of a sure-fire clean-up for 42-year old brake lines that have probably had everything from brake fluid to rattle-can spray paint on them, please let me know.

Many thanks

[Wade Nelson]

If that's the worst mistake you make restoring a vintage sports car you're ahead of most of us.

The thing ya gotta do is make some friends at a garage. Go down there, talk to them, take them pizza, donuts, beer @ 5pm. Never visit empty-handed.

Even if they consider you a pain in the butt they'll welcome the food and tolerate your endless questions.

Show them your progress. Take stuff down there you can't figure out how to take apart without breaking, or how to re-assemble.

Then when you tell them you're gonna bend some new brake lines they'll offer to show you how and in 30 seconds you DISCOVER about double flaring... and they might even lend you their tool.

Tell them EVERYTHING you're gonna do BEFORE you do it, order parts, etc. They'll give you advice that will save you a small fortune, direct you towards specialty shops, rebuilders, etc.

Edited March 6, 2013 by Wade Nelson