bet ya have an auto though.

I'd like to keep my manual.

It's actually cheaper to go L28et.

The Z drivetrain can handle the extra HP.

where can i get a rebuilt L28et?

Just find a low mileage 280ZX turbo donar car. You want the whole EFI setup too. I've seen L28ET short blocks with over 100k miles put 350HP to the wheels (with a lot of head work, bit turbo, etc, etc.). The short blocks are very durable.

Short Blocks... Long Blocks?

Where is the difference in the short blocks and long blocks?

and where are the short blocks found in, compared to the long blocks?

I thought that all the L28e's are virtually the same except the heads?

Proxlamus the later F54 block is more durable due to extra webbing in the block around the cylinders, both are durable but the later are just a bit better. :classic: .

I know a short motor is half a motor ie: just the block.

I'm not 100% on the definition of what you'd call a short block or a long block.

I've generally heard it used in terms of V8's so it's never been my forte' can someone explain for me also?:classic:

so the later F54 engines are the long block L28e's?

and anything before is short block?

No I don't believe that was what he meant.

I think because the L engine is a smaller capacity motor he refers to it as short block.

Better off waiting for someone to explain it who knows the exact definition as I don't really know it myself sorry.

A long block is any "special complete" engine minus outer items such as valve covers, flywheel, oil pan, timing cover, intake and exhaust manifolds and harmonic balancer.

Generally, a short block is any long block engine minus internal components like cylinder head(s), oil pump, gaskets, lifters, sometimes timing components and camshaft.

I thought so but I didn't wanna give misleading info because I wasn't 100% sure.

Thanks :classic: .

So another words he was saying that the L engine block is very durable and i tend to agree as most other Z nuts will tell you.

One review on the Z said the block was bomb proof well I agree it's very strong. :classic:

Short block and long block are exactly the same except a long block comes with head/heads installed. Short blocks are assembled but don't include head/heads. Short blocks are popular in the hot rod V8 market because most people prefer to choose their own heads. Short blocks are cheaper because the don't include head/heads.

GTZZZ, you are correct.

A short block is from the oil pan to the cylinder mounting surface (deck). It includes pistons, rods, crank, etc. A long block is a complete engine, except for any external accesories (alternator, PS pump, AC compressor, etc.).

The easiest way to do the swap is find a good running 280ZX turbo, that may be rusted out, or damaged. From it you can take the engine, the wiring harness, fuel pump, ECU, and anything else that might be usefull (tranny, rear end, wheels). I did this swap on a freinds car, and he hasn't stop smiling since the day he first drove it. You need some electrical skills to do the swap, but it is more than worth the effort.

Pete

canton Ly, for a good engine rebuilt cheap, try Ma's auto in hayward, i may be working there soon, not sure about L motor rebuilt, but they just did a lexus 6 banger rebuild for 700!!!

they do rebuilds for shops a lot cheaper but im figuring about 5-600 for L motor, its so dang cheap im farming mine off to them

300 hp from the L turbo- is nothing. i have 242 dyno computed hp out of my car, with stock innards and bolt on stuff. Im using stock efi and limited to 6k rpm with the ignition curve right now and stock efi. I could sneak 260-270 out of the stock injectors if i had a standalone efi, which i will be doing sooner than later. with a simple injector swap, I could hit 300hp before i would have to do a turbo upgrade, im gonna throw a ball bearing t4 and really kick some arse.

i seriously believe an any L28 can make 300hp turbo, if you maintain a proper air fuel ratio.