Cannon Intake Manifold rod end possible solution

[Captain Obvious]

Three mounting points on a shaft are often trouble. You have to do it right, or not do it at all.

For those of us that aren't familiar with this system at all (like me)... Can you take a closer-upper pic of the linkage and it's mounts? Fill the long way of the frame with the linkage rod you currently have?

[troubledz]

Not to muddy up this tread but would you know if this is a kaminari manifold? There is no numbers or name on it and it only has two mounting brackets. not sure if i will run into binding promlems also?

Thanks.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

IF it has two mounting rods, it simply cannot bind. The rod ends usually have 10-20 degrees of angularity build into them, so you will be okay.

With two, It can only flex in the middle, like mine does. This can be avoided of course in many ways. You can get a beefy actuation rod (3/8" should do it), or you can pull near a mounting point if you can get the springs and linkages to work out. I have mine in mechanically the worst possible position in the middle, and I exasperate it by using a BEEFy return spring.

I am going to get this solved one way or the other.

I did some poking around this morning and found out hat my pedal digs into the carpet and I cannot go WOT :stupid::stupid:

Making these linkages work is NOT hard, but it takes attention to details and time. Luckily for me, I genuinely LOVE it.

I was thinking last night that a torsional spring that wraps around the acuation rod at both ends would be a VERY clean way to get return actuation if you can find a way to mount it to the actuation rod on one end and then fix it on the other end to the intake somewhere.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

sure...

Let me get that, I may already have it.

[Captain Obvious]

I was thinking last night that a torsional spring that wraps around the acuation rod at both ends would be a VERY clean way to get return actuation.

I like that idea. That would remove the tangential component of the spring completely. Just like so many other throttle return springs.

Mill some flats onto the actuator rod or drill a cross hole... Anything to get a grip on it. Attach some brackets to the rod to accept a hook on one end of the spring, and then hook the other end of the springs to the mounting points.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

I like that idea. That would remove the tangential component of the spring completely. Just like so many other throttle return springs.

EXACTLY....

it would be smooth as silk, and not put any radial load on the rod. It would be compact. I should try to make a prototype...

[steve91tt]

Could you make some sort of offset male/female threaded standoff for the linkage holes? Kinda like this one...

McMaster-Carr

but the female end would be offset slightly. This would allow you to rotate the standoffs to get the alignment you need. Just a thought.

Edited February 28, 2013 by steve91tt

[zKars]

and a torsional style spring tension can be adjusted SO simply by just wrapping it more tightly or loosening it. No more hunting for just the right return spring! Brilliant!

[Zedyone_kenobi]

applying for patent now...

www.patentmyideareallyquick.com

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Okay, I generated this up pretty quickly, but you can get my idea. All of this is available from McMasterCarr

You would have to buy the collar, and drill some small holes in it which you would put dowel pins

Next you need to make a plate out of some scrap metal. The rod end is already on your manifold. One end of the spring will rest against a dowel on the collar. The other end of the spring will stick into one of the holes in the plate being held by the rod end.

The plate between the nuts will need some anti rotation feature, but that is nothing to implement.

Opinions?

[John Coffey]

Well... I ran a 4130 tube, 5/16" OD, .083" wall and had no flexing at all with two rod end mounts.

[zKars]

Zeddy: Anti-rotation feature = spot weld.

John, don't confuse us with simplicity and reason at this point. We are on a design adventure here!

Edited February 28, 2013 by zKars