Hey folks, I would like to convert my interior lights to LEDs (Speedo, Tach, Temp, Oil, Clock, Dome and Map), but have basically no knowledge in the department. All the write-ups I've found so far have been a little above my head.

A lot of people recommend Super Bright LEDs, so I will probably purchase from there.

I'm sure I can remove all the instruments without a walk-through, my question really is just what considerations must be made to do the switch and not mess anything up, light anything on fire, etc. ?

I also think it'd be cool to be able to control the color of them. I know things like that exist, I just don't know how easily it could be done in this application.

Here what I have selected for the dash lights,

and here is what I was thinking for the dome.

I'm not sure what type of bulb the map light takes.

Edited March 7, 201312 yr by ninjazombiemaster

ratsun.net has a few threads about dash led's. Not z specific, but bulbs are pretty much the same. The threads are for 620 and 520 pickups, maybe other models.

Thanks. I went over and found this.

That is probably ideal, since the light will around the whole edge instead of one point. The only problem is our Z gauges are all separate, so if I go that route, I will need to find a way to wire a bunch of short strips to one universal receiver. Its also a lot more expensive than a couple of bright LEDs.

You're thinking too much. Again, not z specific, but very similar. The third link will probably be most useful.

LED Gauge Cluster - How-To - Ratsun Forums

Instrument panel lights - Trucks - Ratsun Forums

How To: LED Your 620 Truck (Inside) - How-To - Ratsun Forums

You're thinking too much. Again, not z specific, but very similar. The third link will probably be most useful.

LED Gauge Cluster - How-To - Ratsun Forums

Instrument panel lights - Trucks - Ratsun Forums

How To: LED Your 620 Truck (Inside) - How-To - Ratsun Forums

Yeah, I found all of those after you directed me there.

I think the strip method would be best since it would allow for more consistent lighting as opposed to a single bulb. These would then be used to connect each instrument together, and then to one receiver, controlling the color and other properties. Would the leads from one bulb be enough to power the LEDs for all the instruments using this method?

I haven't done any led conversions yet. I am just bookmarking pages until I am ready to convert. The 620 thread shows bulbs for different lighting zones, 90 deg, 180 deg etc.

I did a little more digging.

It looks like 16.4 Ft is the minimum spool length, and leaves a few options.

1: Color changing LEDs with IR receiver and Remote. Includes 20 colors, brightness 1-4 [in addition to normal control], Modes: Flash, Strobe, Fade, and Smooth. Additional receivers can be added for additional dimming controls, or other effects like responding to music.

The LED density is only available in the regular 150, may lead to somewhat uneven lighting. Still better than stock. Requires 4 RGB 12v connecting cables in order to light all instruments.

Total cost ~$65 before shipping.

2: Single color LED strips.

Warm and cool white available in 300-600 density. Single colors are also availabe in 300 density. Normal dash dimming usable. Requires 4 12v connecting cables in order to light all instruments.

Total cost ~$20-40 before shipping, depending on light density. (300 units are about $15 per spool, 600 are $25-30)

3: Standard LED coversion

$2-5 dollars per bulb, 5 bulbs for instruments means $10-25 for the instrument panel. No fuss instillation, no features. Normal dash dimming works.

The strips can be cut at every 3rd light and then the extension is used to attach it to the next instrument. 3' cables come in 4 packs at $5 and would probably do the trick.

None of these seem to be real expensive. The best results are a toss up. To summarize:

High Density white lights are inexpensive and offer great lighting, but will change the interior light color to white, obviously.

Medium Density green would be a good, fairly stock looking option. Slightly less dense that white, but probably brighter than stock.

Color changing LEDs offer all sorts of cool features and customization, but offer half the density than other options at twice the cost. It may not be much brighter than stock.

Normal conversions are the cheapest, and can be brighter than stock. They can be installed in the existing domes to keep stock look.

All of these systems are 12 volts, but some are higher wattage. However, being LEDs it may still be lower than stock incandescent.

Plain LEDs are the best option for the map light and dome light. Strips would be silly. My dome light doesn't work, probably needs a bulb. My map light surprisingly works, but is not particularly bright.

Edited March 7, 201312 yr by ninjazombiemaster

Biting the bullet and purchasing the color changing strip light kit. If they are too dim, I can double up the strips in the instrument - I'll have plenty to go around.

The strip and components I will be using:

Flexible LED Light Strip Easy-Plug Kit - SMD 5050 - Color Changing RGB -With UL Recognized Components

The extenders for linking the singal between instruments. 4 should be the minimum to link all 5 instruments, and 3.3' will hopefully be long enough to route them:

HitLights LED Strip-to-Strip Connector - SMD 5050 And SMD 3528 (3-Color) - Any Angle - 4 pack

If all goes well, it will be a mostly plug and play installation, with the exception of modding the light socket to the power. From what I've seen on the Ratsun forums, the one set of leads should sufficiently power the unit. If not, I'll have to find another way, and I'd rather not have my lighter powering my dash

I will post a walk through of my progress when I start.

Overlooked the heater panel as a place that needs to be redone. That means I'll need another extender.

While adding that, I came across this: Strip to Adapter Male Plug Cable (4 pcs Pack)

Now I don't have to slice up the included Adapter to wire this thing.

So there's $12.96 more down the drain ($5 is from being dumb and not ordering everything at once. Live and learn)

$77.92 spent so far. I'll probably have a lot of lights left over, and several extension cords. I'm willing to send any leftovers to get someone else kick-started and save us both some cash.

I should be able to start Monday or Tuesday next week, and am pretty excited!

Just finished a similar project to light my gauges with white LEDs. I found a unit at Wally World with two 14" strips for $19. These strips of LEDs aim parallel to the adhesive backing. By sticking them to the inner surface of the instrument case, they point towards the opening reflecting light on the meter face.

A 14" strip will nicely circle the tach and speedometer. Likewise the clock can be fitted with one loop and cut to length. The flexible strips can be cut to lengths in multiples of 3 LEDs. (Each set of 3 LEDs has it own dropping resister)

The temp/oil pressure gauge and ammeter/fuel gauge are a little trickier. The meters fit close to the case and will not allow a single strip to circle the case. I cut strips of 6 LEDs, one for the left side and one for the right side of the case. At the cut points they have to copper pads to solder leads, just be careful to observe the + and - polarities some units are marked others are not.

I didn't want to alter the existing instrument lighting, so I drilled a small hole in the back of the cases and inserted rubber grommets. Wired them into the instrument panel lighting circuit I had previously patched in for my Vintage Air AC panel. I had considered taking the base of #57 bulb and plugging into the existing socket, but this would require removing the blue-green bulb filter.

The new lighting setup works through the rheostat with the LED brightness matching the bulbs reasonably well.

As a project, I would give it a difficulty rating of 5 on a scale of 10. Definitely not a job for beginners. However the results fully met my expectations.

Edited April 1, 201311 yr by djwarner

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/48940-led-dash-conversion-begins.html#post426447

Heres the thread thats detailing my method. I decided to go the expensive route, with an infrared controlled system that can change colors.

I'm going to remove but keep the filters. If I left them, they'd likely goof with the lighting. I've some minimal soldering experience from working on guitars, so soldering some leads should hopefully be easy enough.

I've been watching your thread with interest. I tried the flat surfaced BA9 bulbs that replace the original 2 watt bulbs only to find them no brighter than the originals. I was hoping to see your results before I did anything, but the side pointing white LEDs just seemed too good to pass up.