After thinking more about it there are two ways to go:

1.

Raise the height of the existing rod links and use a very long rod like the one below.

Connect a lever on the end of the rod and connect to the bell crank on the fire wall.

Once you get the long rod up higher, you will have room for the brake booster hose to connect.

You will probably have to relocate the throttle arms on the carbs to the front side of the carb.

2.

Use a short rod like below and use a cable (not shown) to pull the rod

Got the carburetor linkage working and found proper 90-degree connector for brake booster. BUT i may have asked this before ( i couldnt find where):

I need to find a easy to install / cheapish throttle cable. Linkage disaligns with the one in car, about 1.5 inch and the original rod does not bend that much. I will add picture later.

How about like this?

and throttle cable installation.

CABLE_INSTALL

Reverend, if you look under the tech publications and how-to section, you should see a parts list and write-up of how I did my throttle cable install on my Weber DCOE's. Hopefully it gives you some ideas on how you want to do yours.

Yea ive read it. Lokar cable seems to be the only way, when speaking cheap wire throttle.

So close but so far. I could perhaps try to fabricate a rod to suit my needs also, i just dont know where.

You can see that small disalignment.

Another thing that worries me is that the inlet manifold and header are different sizes. What i mean by that is that the header is thicker from where you tighten it to the head, that warps the big "washer" and i dont know is the inlet tight enough. I've put some lock washers before big one and hopefully it solves the problem...

Screwing up continues. I might as well use this thread. The oem linkage did not align with the setup so i tried to modify the oem throttle rod. With bad results of course. Found out a machine shop that modded my rod and it looks like this

Looks good, except it does not work. The misalignment moves it to very weird positions, and its not working as predicted. It should be maybe located 1 inch to the left from original place. I've seen pictures of similar kinds of setup SOMEWHERE, but cant found out. Those who have similar(ish) setup please respond, how did you do it.

CheerZ

Couple more shots

I'm sure I posted this pic,

I had a bit more room to play with then you do. The ? looking hook that I used is very different than yours.

The real problem you are facing is trying to correct for lack of alinement in 2 different axis, you may just have to bite the bullet and go with a cable.

Here is a weird idea that may work.

Precisely weld a nut to the top of a bolt. (both Axis are 90 degrees to each other).

The bolt would screw into the manifold to adjust the height.

The nut on the top of the bolt would accept your existing heim joint for adjusting the main rod's location towards and away from the motor.

You can weld fillets to the nut then grind for strength and beauty.

This is inexpensive and lets you adjust up/down and in/out to get the rod aligned with the firewall end

For precision during the welding:

The manifold should be used as a jig when welding. Thread the bolts into the manifold and adjust to the same height then place the nuts on a long threaded rod. Sit this on the bolts and adjust so that the nut-to-bolt is the same ..... then weld.

Edited February 14, 201411 yr by Blue

Okay, so I triedto start it without the linkage. Fuel started to move trough the lines nicely but I noticed a major leak on the regulator, so firstly I retigthtened it. Primed carbs couple of times manually cause no working linkage. Tried to start it but no luck on that. it makes funny "puff puff puff puff" noise, like a steam train but does not start. I wonder what I have done wrong