I did a trade with a dude from CA... He sent me set of triple webbers and manifold. Only downside is that THIS IS NOT MATCHING TRIPLET :mad::mad:

Is it anyway possible to run with this setup or should i just resell these as matching pair + one..??

All of them are 40mm.

Edit: dont mind about that booklet it came with the package!

Edited March 13, 201311 yr by Reverend

Koalia, you might try contacting Jeff Winter with Rallye-Sport in Westminster, CO. He is one of the best L-Series engine builders in the US and he might have a matching carb for you. Try emailing him at: rsport@qwestoffice.net or calling him at: 303-427-0510. If he does not have it he will know where to get it.

Good luck!

JTIII

Thanks Alan! Im in no rush, im planning to drive with SU's this summer, or at least the beginning of it, cause getting all the jets etc etc is money eating process. Got to take this slowly so i can afford to buy butter to cover my bread Might a trade come in question? I have no use for that 149 series Weber.

Back from your trip yet Alan?

Yes, I'm back. But very busy at the moment.....

No worries

Still looking for extra 18 series weber if anyone has one for sale (or giveaway )

I've still got the one I offered to you.

You don't want that one...?

Yessir i do! I just tought you had forgotten Got to keep me channels open. Should we continue this via PM or here?

Well i decieded to continue this old thread, as this kinda is about my good luck with carburators. I ordered a linkage set from pierce manifold, provided them pictures of my current setup and write up. First of all, the rod is way too long, i guess you can cut it shorter without ruining it. Secondly, rod ends are with wrong threading, does not fit the manifold. Thirdly, IF the rod would be cut to proper size, my linkage wouldnt work as the brake booster tube is on the way... Check the pics.

What would you do? Im still learning, dont want to be spoon fed but some creative ideas would be nice.

http://sdrv.ms/19zV7Uf

http://sdrv.ms/19zV8HO

http://sdrv.ms/1cChDJo

Analysis:

1. It looks like the vacuum line tap in the runner uses the same casting locations as the rod-ends that hold the linkage-rod.

Solution 1. Try to fit or make a low profile 90degree fitting for the hose so that it is diverted at the manifold and does not interfere with the linkage

Solution 2. Try to find another casting location on the manifold for drilling and tapping a new vacuum line fitting

2. Sadly, from experience, the guys at Pierce are nice but not the brightest. They should have asked you about metric fittings as you are in Europe. Being in the states, most of their product line is not metric thus the size / thread differences.

Solution 1. You should be able to source the metric components in Finland (ss linkage-rod, rod ends). Call a machine shop or engine rebuilding shop and talk to someone there. Here in Canada, I can buy the stock for linkage rod in most hardware stores....not SS but they have it...in imperial sizes though.

Solution 2. Assemble your manifold and carbs, no linkage. Bring this and the stock linkage from the Z (noting distances from where that last shepherd hook sits relative to runner 1) along with photos of linkages and manifolds to a machine shop along with your heap of linkage parts and ask them to finish the assembly and supply any require parts to make it work.

Looks like you are on the home stretch now! One more push and you will have it sorted!

btw What manufacturer of manifold do you have?

Some helpful photos here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetors-s30/37492-lynx-manifold-photos.html#post446728

After thinking more about it there are two ways to go:

1.

Raise the height of the existing rod links and use a very long rod like the one below.

Connect a lever on the end of the rod and connect to the bell crank on the fire wall.

Once you get the long rod up higher, you will have room for the brake booster hose to connect.

You will probably have to relocate the throttle arms on the carbs to the front side of the carb.

2.

Use a short rod like below and use a cable (not shown) to pull the rod