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WEber Internal spring


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Strangely, Yes, it seems I have been hitting the darn carpet/floormats for years with my pedal not allowing me to hit the stops. I found that out as well. If I adjust the stop more 'in' I will hit the carpet and stop anyway. If I take out the carpet I can get more throw, but I really do not want to do that. Maybe I can notch the carpet or the throttle pedal, or both. I really want to use my schwanky new 240Z floormats, but they are very thick. So it will be trial and error. But I have a very positive feeling that I may be in a good place now.

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VICTORY

After driving around with the car last night, the gas pedal has never felt as good as it does now. LIght, snappy, instant. Idle returns to 950 rpm every single time. Life is good. Those internal springs and longer actuation arm for the throttle cable did the trick. I will post a picture of my setup as soon as I can.

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Fantastic! Now go and make sure those throttles open all the way and unleash the beast.

This is an issue that plagues a lot of triple-carb guys, and I suspect it is a huge part of why many people that try them don't like them. It sucks to come to a stoplight with a 1500rpm idle and having a bunch of corny return springs littered around the engine bay. Like Captain said, it really is about the little things.

Big thumbs up. ;)

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I think the 47605.009 spring finding is from this forum's efforts. When searching the net I only get 16 useful hits with "47605.009" .

It will be interesting to see how fast this spreads to the Weber community.....even the Alpha guys don't seem to address this.

BTW when I search most interesting and generalized car stuff, I usually get great hits from the Datsun community.

Way to go guys!

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Leon V to anwer your question.

I have 4 arms on my actuation rod.

3 longer arms for the carb acuation rods

1 short arm that is ONLY used to hook up a universal return spring (this is the short arm that WAS used for the throttle Cable Connection, but NO LONGER) This spring is barely loaded when throttle plates closed, It only needs enough force to keep a slight bit of tension on the ball and socket rods to keep them from impeding the strong internal weber springs.

Now I have the longer arms, one for each carb hooked up (using the middle hole for the ball and socket attachment)

I use the middle carb long arm to attach the throttle cable to. I attach it to the outermost hole in the acuation arm giving me the most mechanical advantage I can get

I am using the strongest internal return spring Blue mentioned

I marked with one continuous line with a fine point sharpie the joint between the actuation arm and the actuation rod on the 2nd carb so that if I get any slippage I will know it.

This is working marvelously right now. I think it would be wise to acquire another long acuation arm and attach the throttle cable AND universal return spring to it in place of the short actuation arm.

I have the UK parts coming. I will have keep them and try them if this setup gives me any problems at all. If not then I have a great spare set, and I am sure I can always sell it.

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Great info, thanks!

I've got 6x 47605.009 springs on order from Spruell Motorsports. Spruell charges $2.50 a piece whereas Pierce was $9 a pop when I called them earlier today. I still use the stock pedal linkage in the orange Z but the green one will be using a cable throttle. Hopefully, I can resolve the issue with both as painlessly as possible!

Blue, if I'm not mistaken, it may have been you who clued us in on the springs! I remember looking at this site before, probably from a link you gave: webrpump

Edited by LeonV
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