Another MSA door weatherstrip problem

[New-to-240z]

Well, its my turn to get upset at these new weatherstrip replacements from MSA. The install went fine, everything fit perfectly. But when I go to shut the door, it has to be slammed in order for the lock to click. Even then, the actual rear of the door is pushed out a good .5 inch.

I also notice that the rear of the door isn't even touching the weatherstrip. It seems that the front of the door (where the hinges are) is touching the weatherstripping and is soooo tight, that is isn't allowing the rear of the door to close correctly.

I read on here from another thread "Door Slamming Issue Solved FINALLY" that I might need to shim the hinges. Will this resolve my problems?

When the WS is off, the door has no problem closing at all, and lines up perfect with the gaps. As soo as the damn WS gets installed, it barely closes at all.

I'll have some pictures tonight, but would really like your help!! Anyone?

[LeonV]

Does anyone actually bother to adjust the door strikers when putting on new weatherstripping? It's kinda necessary...

[rcb280z]

Adjusted mine on my 280 and still have the same issue as "New-to-240z" is and MSA's only option to me was to heat the weatherstripping while it's on the door to "shrink" it! Yea right! I have to slam my doors, push in on it from the outside so I'm not putting too much stress on the handle to open them, etc. Mine are nearly 2 years old! Im thinking of taking it to a body shop for help.

New-to-240z, if you find a solution post it here. There seems to be a few of us with this same problem and if you have installed them (MSA's brand) then you have had the same issue and adjusting hinges and strikers doesn't work.

Edited March 18, 2013 by rcb280z

[olzed]

I fitted door weatherstrip to my 240Z some 13 years ago, procured from Victoria British, now Black Dragon.

It is the solid soft rubber type of seal.

The doors were very tight to close, and still are to some degree, although they have eased over the years, and are now OK for me.

I thought at the time, that was how they were supposed to be.

Am i correct in thinking the 260Z was factory fitted with different weatherstrip to overcome this problem? The type with a hole rather than being the solid squishy rubber as the 240Z.

Edited March 18, 2013 by olzed

[jfa.series1]

The issues with the PRP door weatherstrips is only one of the most well-documented topics on the forum. Remember - the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results. Switch to Nissan OE, Vintage Rubber, or possibly Kia Sportage.

[hr369]

Do you have a large gap between the door edge and the quarter panel?

If you are too close up front why not adjust the door back towards the quarter panel, away from the pillar.

The door pillars on zcars are not as solid as you think. I've noticed that when I jack up mine using the factory jack on the jacking point under the front fender, the door gap changes a little.

[New-to-240z]

Does anyone actually bother to adjust the door strikers when putting on new weatherstripping? It's kinda necessary...

@LeonV : I will look into that when I get home, but the rear of the door isn't even coming in to contact with the weathstripping.

[New-to-240z]

Do you have a large gap between the door edge and the quarter panel?

If you are too close up front why not adjust the door back towards the quarter panel, away from the pillar.

The door pillars on zcars are not as solid as you think. I've noticed that when I jack up mine using the factory jack on the jacking point under the front fender, the door gap changes a little.

I that is what I was thinking of doing. I was actually thinking of adding some 'shims' on the hinges to bring the door out a little to allow the back to pull in further before the front of teh door starts touching the WS.

If anyone is out here in CA (Mission Viejo / Orange ) I would love to troubleshoot!

[psdenno]

Prior to adjusting the latch or shimming the hinges, I'd suggest parking the Z in a sunny spot for a few days with the doors closed and let the seals compress naturally. This seems to be a very common occurrence, my '71 did the same thing with new seals, a day in the summer sun fixed the issue.

Messing with latch alignment and hinge shims seems like it opens the door, so to speak, for other problems as the new seals settle in.

Dennis

[280~Master]

I used the Kia Sportage and have no problems at all. Just adjusted the strikers and everything closes great. Seals like a champ and I would recommend that mod for any Z not trying to be original 100%.

[Lazeum]

I've removed my MSA kit as well after I've tried everything to make them work. I had to slam the door to close it. It was painful & frustrating. I was almost anxious to open the doors since I did not know if something would fail while closing them.

So I went to the junk yard, look for cars with bigger doors than the Z & with maximun one 90° bend. I ended up finding a Renault Twingo here in France that was quite a match. What I'm saying is Kia sportage works but I'm sure, they're plenty other options to investigate.

Mine was straight with no bend so I cut the gasket with 45° angle. Junction is made at the top of the door where there's a 90° to fill.

Install is cleaner since it is clamped instead of being glued, extruded hollow shape is also much softer to compress. Nobody will notice the difference between stock and new gasket. Actually it looks better and it is 100% sealed.

here's the difference.

[hr369]

I that is what I was thinking of doing. I was actually thinking of adding some 'shims' on the hinges to bring the door out a little to allow the back to pull in further before the front of teh door starts touching the WS.

If anyone is out here in CA (Mission Viejo / Orange ) I would love to troubleshoot!

I would not recommend shimming the door away from the pillar. The top of the door frame might not seal well and

your door might stick out above the fender.

First...remove the door striker. That takes the striker out of the alignment equation.

take a black magic marker and trace the outline of the hinge alignment so that you can return to this

alignment if everything you try is worse. Loosen the bottom hinge bolts on the pillar just a little bit. You don't want the door hinge so loose its sagging and you need to support the door to hold it up.

Pull up on the bottom of the door. it moved a bit?

tighten down the bolts. Now loosen the top hinge bolts and push down on the top of the door. did it move? Now check your fit.

keep doing this until the door moves back enough to not bind