Another MSA door weatherstrip problem

[New-to-240z]

I would not recommend shimming the door away from the pillar. The top of the door frame might not seal well and

your door might stick out above the fender.

First...remove the door striker. That takes the striker out of the alignment equation.

take a black magic marker and trace the outline of the hinge alignment so that you can return to this

alignment if everything you try is worse. Loosen the bottom hinge bolts on the pillar just a little bit. You don't want the door hinge so loose its sagging and you need to support the door to hold it up.

Pull up on the bottom of the door. it moved a bit?

tighten down the bolts. Now loosen the top hinge bolts and push down on the top of the door. did it move? Now check your fit.

keep doing this until the door moves back enough to not bind

I will try this tonight on one of the doors and will take pictures as well. Thank you for the detailed instructions!

To everyone else, I am just trying to stick with the MSA WS because its already on, and I paid $$ for them. If, in the end, I can't get the damn doors to close correctly I'll return them to MSA (if they are willing to take them back) and buy me some Kia Sportage WS.

[rcb280z]

To everyone else, I am just trying to stick with the MSA WS because its already on, and I paid $$ for them. If, in the end, I can't get the damn doors to close correctly I'll return them to MSA (if they are willing to take them back) and buy me some Kia Sportage WS.

They won't take it back. I'll be waiting for the results. I may be going the Kia sportage route myself. Getting tired of trying to find solutions to MSA's WS.

[New-to-240z]

Sorry guys. Been crazy busy with work and the girl. I'm also trying to figure out what rims to finally throw on her. :-)

I'll be trying out a few things this weekend. Also, prob talk to MSA about the issue and see what they have to say.

[black gold man]

I think with heat and time the new rubber will compress.

There is friction between the door and rubber and that will not let the rubber move so

i think lube will help let the new rubber move and compress anybody try something like this.

Wurth Rubber Care Gel Stick

[djwarner]

I replaced my passenger door seal with an MSA seal last fall. I've gone through all of the above corrective actions except shimming. To date the required door closing effort has not yet eased to my satisfaction, though it has gotten better with age.

Compared to the driver's door seal, the new seal is significantly harder. It appears to be binding at the hinge side of the door due to it resisting compression there. I can' really fault MSA as they are simply offering replacement parts from a third party manufacturer. It appears the replacement parts manufacturer is simply taking a standard rubber extrusion and making a 90 degree joint for the upper rear corner. I don't know whether a similar extrusion is available in a softer durometer, but it would certainly improve the product. Are you listening MSA?

[bpilati]

The issues with the PRP door weatherstrips is only one of the most well-documented topics on the forum. Remember - the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results. Switch to Nissan OE, Vintage Rubber, or possibly Kia Sportage.

Vintage Rubber actually supplies PRP now on the door seals, but can't answer about possible remaining old stock left. The owner of Vintage told me this. Vintage changed the durameter of the rubber to make it softer. Still not perfect but much better.

[rcb280z]

For now I just push in slightly on the door and then open it. Seem's to work okay.

[Jarvo2]

I had great luck with an early Cavilier's weatherstripping.

Dave's 1972 Datsun 240z: Door weather seals

[txvepr]

Avoid the gnashing of teeth and go KIA sportage. Done and Done.

[bartsscooterservice]

Well, its my turn to get upset at these new weatherstrip replacements from MSA. The install went fine, everything fit perfectly. But when I go to shut the door, it has to be slammed in order for the lock to click. Even then, the actual rear of the door is pushed out a good .5 inch.

I also notice that the rear of the door isn't even touching the weatherstrip. It seems that the front of the door (where the hinges are) is touching the weatherstripping and is soooo tight, that is isn't allowing the rear of the door to close correctly.

I read on here from another thread "Door Slamming Issue Solved FINALLY" that I might need to shim the hinges. Will this resolve my problems?

When the WS is off, the door has no problem closing at all, and lines up perfect with the gaps. As soo as the damn WS gets installed, it barely closes at all.

I'll have some pictures tonight, but would really like your help!! Anyone?

Look up my post 39 in that topic. These are perfect and are not expensive, I got them at an Industrial rubber seal supplier. It just a clamp on seal, push in place.. only the ends need to be glued together.

[gnosez]

You can shrink the seal using solvent, slam the door and leave the car in the sun.