Installing Aftermarket Stereo Receiver - Wiring Question

[UR2H]

Can someone tell me which wire they used for the constant power?

Before I tap a wire not in the general area in where the stereo sits, I was wondering which wire other Z owners were using.

Edited March 26, 2013 by UR2H

[jfa.series1]

I tapped the clock power for a constant on.

[Travel'n Man]

Pulled dedicated line from battery.

[Captain Obvious]

If you want something self contained to the console, there ought to be something hot at all times going to the flasher switch.

[SteveJ]

Cigarette lighter

[Classic83owner]

Details please. Year mostly. I just installed a Pioneer in my 83 2+2. My factory digital unit had one connector for battery power, ign. power, ground, and antenna signal. AND it had a second connector for speaker output. I just probed the wires in the first with a 12 V test light with the key on and off to determine which were which. Of course the black is the ground, cant remember the colors of the power wires, but I can tell you that the factory stereo had a green wire (12 V output) that goes to the antenna timer. That is the one you would connect to the blue wire of your new head unit for the power antenna. I also mounted the factory mid/long range antenna switch in the factory location to retain the factory function of the antenna.

[Jetaway]

Can someone tell me which wire they used for the constant power?

Before I tap a wire not in the general area in where the stereo sits, I was wondering which wire other Z owners were using.

I know of no standards for rating auto audio power outputs but if the unit is capable of an honest 100 watts (2 X 50w or 4 X 25w) I recommend running a fused line straight to the battery. Even if it isn't, it keeps it a little cleaner by the fusebox this way.

To answer your question: Tap a circuit that is live with the ignition off. Headlights, hazard lights, parking lights, dome / interior are usual suspects. I'd avoid the headlight circuit simply because they have a pretty heavy draw themselves and while you wouldn't notice if the dome light circuit fuse blew while blowing along at 80 mph at 2:00 in the morning, you definitely, and not in a good way, notice if the headlight circuit blew.

Chris

[TomoHawk]

UR2H-

As Classic83Owner mentioned, it really helps to start off with mentioning your specific year &model; otherwise the comments you'll get are probably for a 240Z/S30

I wanted to run a new line from the battery for the radio, but there were already a couple added, so I replaced the whole (accessory feed system) with 1 wire to an insulated stud located in a inconspicuous place by the battery, and the accessory lines go from that. Also, the firewall grommet is probably stuffed tight with wires, so forcing yet another heavy line through is not a good idea, unless you plan to cut another hole for a second feed-through grommet. After all the wires are in place, you can wrap or cover the exposed wires to look like it all belonged there.

Don't forget to make a drawing or notes in your vehicle's logbook, so you will later know what wires are which and go to what.

[SteveJ]

To end the tangent, the OP has a 77. The constant power is just for the memory, so it will not draw much power.

As for the draw of the head unit, look in the owner's manual for the unit and find its rated draw. Remember that fusing should be rated to protect the wires, not the components. If the draw of the head unit is too much, add a relay to one of the accessory circuits. (See Relays Simplified | Fiddling With Z Cars for information on connecting the relay.) For the switched power, you can then tap off the battery as Tomohawk suggested, run that wire to an inline fuse and through the relay to the head unit.

Be sure the select the appropriate gauge wire. If you don't know how, ask.

[TomoHawk]

From the radio installations that I've done, they all had a 1A fuse on the memory wire, so it probably needs far less than 1amp. Unless your radio harness connector has a live wire on it, the hazard switch or clock, or cigarette light sounds like an acceptable place to tap for the memory power line.

[Captain Obvious]

If you want something self contained to the console, there ought to be something hot at all times going to the flasher switch.

This suggestion has a problem and won't work. Bonus points to the first person who can figure out what that problem is. :bulb:

[Mikes Z car]

Here is a wild arse guess otherwise known as a wag. All wires on the flasher switch are normally hot? If someone gets it right do they get a prize? What about booby prizes for incorrect answers?