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Tired of the heater, dripped coolant before I bypassed it, takes up all the foot room on the passenger side, looks crappy with all the broken plastic. Have a warm jacket and boots if it comes to that. Like having the fan, though - it helps defog the windshield in the winter, even without any heat.

Can do?

Edited by Stanley
misspelled word

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Stanley, the heater core is up on top of the trans tunnel right next to the firewall, the blower is what hangs down into the Passenger footwell.

If you remove the H/C from the heater/ventilation box you would certainly get more blow from the blower but to do it you basically have to remove the dash,

centre console before you can even get to the heater box, lots of work.

Chris


That's an A/C evaporator core you seeing in there from the dealer installed A/C unit from the time. Heater core is in where granny says it is. No wonder you're concerned about the foot well space. Those ancient things are massive.

You have to retain at the very least some warm fan powered air on the defrost to make driving in cool wet weather safe. Whether you want to retain the A/C part, get it working is totally up to you. They are separate, I'm sure you can remove the A/C box and leave the fan and heater stuff alone.

The AC? Should have known, there was a non-working compressor that was removed when I got the car. The non-working heater can stay, hope to fix it someday. Expect a few uncomfortable hours getting the AC box out. New AC would be nice, but only after some performance engine work is done, so way down the list, if ever. If it gets too hot I use a cool cushion, a 40 ounce ice tea, and open the window.

Wonder if there's a cover available for that bunch of relays etc., on the right side?

That thing's out of there. Only took about an hour or so, would have been less if I hadn't unnecessarily removed the bottom of the box first. Found the leak - one of the heater hose connections at the valve was covered with corrosion. Don't know if the heater valve can be saved. The diamond pattern vinyl under the valve is all tan with the residue. The heater core looks strangely brand new, also the clamps. Maybe someone replaced the core and clamps and forgot to check it for leaks.

Plenty of footroom now. A duct and holes in the firewall to plug, so I'll get some more shop towels. The AC unit looks ok except for cracked plastic on the bottom. Want to throw it in the dumpster but it might be worth money - anybody want to trade a Gilken OS head for it?

Now I wish I hadn't cut off the hoses in the engine bay - or at least left enough to splice.

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I had leak in exactly same spot. Those valves are cheap (20 something) so i strongly suggest you change one. It might be easy to change or PITA as was mine (thanks to rusted out screws) Did that and it ended the dripping/coolant smell in car.

EDIT: i just read that you had bypassed your heater. LOL. Well if you ever deciede to un-bypass it.. ;)

Yep, now that I see where the leak is I'll fix it. Just need the valve and hoses. That cheapo set of little stubby screwdrivers will come in handy again. And plenty of liquid wrench.

Also plan to do the mod that runs a hose from the heater outlet on the head to a tee on the upper radiator hose, so I need a tee and valve (to run it when needed) in the line before the heater.

BTW, saw an AC evaporator like mine on e-bay for $235, without the enclosure or thermostat line and control. Is that for real? When you could probably put a complete system together from much newer used parts for about the same?

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