Starting paint job - body work

[idoxlr8]

I'd be using 80 grit if you are using a DA. 120 will take forever to get to bare metal.

Good quality epoxies don't need etch primer underneath them. There is nothing that gives a better foundation than epoxy.

[tamo3]

Why not use paint stripper? Isn't it faster?

[idoxlr8]

Why not use paint stripper? Isn't it faster?

Messy and you better be sure it's neutralized properly before applying top coats.

The heat gun and razor blade thing works like a hot damn. No chemicals and easy cleanup. No dust either.

[bhermes]

I know that asking questions like this and trying to paint my own car is scary but I know with everyone's help I will get through it.

I am beginning to wonder if the white coat on my car is actually primer. I tried some 80 grit sandpaper and still having trouble getting to base metal.

I am getting there in some spots but not in most.

Comments? Should I try 60 grit or lower? I don't have a heat gun so I have not been able to attempt the heat and strip method.

Thanks.

[thriller]

Grab your 4" angle grinder and head to the local hardware store to buy some 'strip-it' discs. They look like a grinding wheel but have a weird plasticky kind of 'grit'. Grab maybe 4 of the discs.

I did half of my roof, most of my quarter panel, a door jam and full sill panel in a few hours.

Grab a good respirator if you don't already have one too because bodyfiller is some nasy pasty stuff.

Also anyone have any tips on how to remove small dents when you can only reach one side of the panel, i.e. around the wheel arch??

[tamo3]

Hi idoxlr8,

If I use paint stripper, and wash body by water and blow water by air, does it good enough for neutralization? I think using paint stripper for complicated area is faster to remove paint.

[ZCurves]

I have read that it is not a good idea to use an etch primer and then epoxy primer, comments?

First decide on the paint Brand that you want to use (e.g. PPG), then follow what the mfr states as their "System". They usually will have a guide online as to the type of products in the system and the order which it is applied to the surface. This is important because you do not want to have any incompatibilities when you are ready to lay down your paint. Mistakes are expensive AND time consuming to repair. There is a Pretreatment Coating, Primer Surfacer, Primer Sealer then the Single-Stage coating. If you go Two-Stage then there is still one more. For more information go here, and select a one of the pdf's on the right. Again, find your brand and educate yourself to their "System or Process" and follow it to the letter and you should have great results (at least chemically) - Skill at laying down paint is another thread.....

[tlorber]

Also anyone have any tips on how to remove small dents when you can only reach one side of the panel, i.e. around the wheel arch??

Thriller, you can use a stud welder and a slide hammer to pull such dents. If you are unable to find the actual stud welder, you can weld the studs on with a wire welder on a low setting. This thing works pretty well on thin metal in conjunction with the welded studs.

20014 Steck Stud Lever

[idoxlr8]

Hi idoxlr8,

If I use paint stripper, and wash body by water and blow water by air, does it good enough for neutralization? I think using paint stripper for complicated area is faster to remove paint.

Wipe off completely with water and then wipe again with a high quality wax and grease remover before priming.

[e-tek]

One would THINK it'd be easy to ask a few questions and get started, then ask a few more and get it painted.But autobody work isn't as 'universally' understood as say - woodworking, or home renovations. Bodywork iteself is a skill that takes MUCH more practice than hammering nails would impart. And sanding contains within it the understanding of what grits are required for the eventual top coats, while priming and painting not only require considerable physical skill, but also some understanding of chemistry.

With that in mind, I'm on forums to help - not thwart, so lets see if I can impart something helpful here

As far as stripping the paint is concerned, the methods are almost a wash: Chemical strippers are messy, but get down to metal fast. You still have to use the DA to finish it though, so most think they may as well just do the entire job with the DA. I can't imagine where heat and a razor blade would be any faster on an entire car, but that method may be easier on parts where the paint is nearly falling off already. Point is - you RARELY need to strip ALL the paint off a car - unless it's checked/cracked right down to the metal.

So.....Start with 80GGrit on the DA and (using a good 3M mask!) sand the entire car until it'll all 80G smooth. On any parts where the paint keeps flaking back because it's "checked" (cracked), use 40G or paint stripper or a razor to remove it to the metal. After you've got it all to metal or 80G smooth, go over it all again with 120G, then 220 G on the DA and/or by hand.

On areas that need to be repaired, try to use the hammer and dolly, carefully, to get it close. Then use a little filler, but first, grind it to metal with 40G on an angle grinder so the filler will bite to the metal properly. Once everything is repaired, filled and smooth, wash the car with lots of soap then clean water and blow dry, then use a "Wax and Grease" removing solvent with many paint-grade paper towels. When it's all clean, masked and blown dry, you can spray a 2-part, high-build Epoxy primer over the entire car - no etch required. 3 heavy coats (1/2-3/4 gal on a 240z) to build it up enough for sanding, with a little black (from a spray can) dusted over top to use as a guide-coat. Using 120, then 220 on long blocks you'll sand it all to get it even. Look up "cross-hatch sanding" . After blocking it all all out, you'll spray another 3 coats and repeat the process, but with 400G, then 600G wet. You may still need to spot prime areas that either need more fill or break-through to metal. Wash the entire car again, blow dry, use wax and grease remover and then you're ready for sealer and paint.

Actually that DOES sound easy! Too bad it isn't!!

[bartsscooterservice]

Messy and you better be sure it's neutralized properly before applying top coats.

The heat gun and razor blade thing works like a hot damn. No chemicals and easy cleanup. No dust either.

Agree, heat gun with a scraper is way easier, few hours work and the car is down to bare metal. Which I would do, because there's always some dents or rust hidden under there.

Edited April 11, 2013 by bartsscooterservice

[bhermes]

Thanks to everyone for their input so far. I have learned some things. One I am going to contact PPG and try and order all of the supplies now. Secondly, I fully understand that even if I follow all the great advice here that my lack of experience will surely result in a less than perfect paint job. I am obviously going to do my best to make things perfect but have to be realistic for my first job. I am prepared, I think, to live with what happens as long as I am prepared and do my homework and do my best. I know it will not be easy. Don't mean to insult those professional painters but I want to give it a try.

Question about the heat gun and scraping. Any concerns of damaging the metal, scratches etc.

Thanks again to all.