clutch question

[kacrow76]

I have a 76 280 4 speed. was working fine when i parked it last summer. the other day went to start it clutch peddle went all the way to the floor nothing there. checked the fluid it was low so i added some no luck. last night tried to bleed it when i opened up the bleeder nothing came out even when my son pumped it. so was thiking master is shot .but after reading some on here and looking at the slave my question is the slave and fork. should the slave piston be out that is how it is was thinking it should be in then when you push on the peddle it should come out.

[EuroDat]

Not sure if I understand your question correctly. It sounds like your slave cylinder piston popped out. If that happened there are several things that could cause it like your slave cylinder, clutch fork, pivot or thrust bearing.

Since the slave piston pushed out, the master cylinder is most probably still ok.

I have seen a clucth slave cylinder seize up with gunk where the piston had so much resistance that it would not travel all the way back. The master cylinder would then fill up with extra fluid and eventually pushed the slave cylinder piston out. A cracked clutch fork can also cause this.

Chas

[kacrow76]

i am not sure how to explain it the slave cylinder piston moves back and forth and so dose the fork just dose not seam right

[EuroDat]

You can check to see if the clutch pedal is adjusted correctly. I dont have a FSM handy, but from memory it should have a small amount of free travel and the total travel is around 220mm or maybe 230mm? That should translate to about 35mm slave cylinder stroke. The slave cylinder rod should move in and out when you pump the clutch. If that doesnt happen then something is wrong with the slave or the master cylinder. You can dismantle them easy, but if something is wrong inside you can better order a new set.

If that all works fine: The slave cylinder should have about 10mm "free" play. The slave cylinder has a internal spring to remove any free play. It should compress about 10 - 15mm, This "free" play is to compensate for clutch plate wear. If you have a lot more than that you could have a problem with the clutch fork. Can you remove the rubber boot and inspect the clutch fork for cracks? Its hard to see inside and get a clear view. Replacing the fork requires removing the transmission.

Chas

[mgood]

Question what color is the fluid in the clutch master. My master went last year and the fluid was black of very dark. I think the rubber O rings when and the fluid was pushing past them. My tail tail sign was it was getting progressively harder and harder the get in to reverse, then it just failed on day.

Don't even fool with it replace both and the rubber line between.

Here is the thread I started about mine. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/getting-help-your-z/46980-clutch-goes-floor-not-engaging.html Everything cost about $80.