Im about to join the 5 speed to my L24 with new exedy clutch. I have never done this procedure so what should i remember? Any hints on how to make it right the first time?

I might be a bit over-paranoid but that has keep me from getting in too much trouble and on the road (not on the side of it) :stupid:

I put an Exedy in mine when I rebuilt the motor. The throw out bearing made a little noise when disengaged but the sound went away after a month or so, very happy with the clutch. I did not replace the rear transmission seal, $3, and it dripped so I had to remove the drive shaft to replace it. I got in a hurry. Tom Monroe says to make the Pilot Bearing "sweat" by holding it with your thumb and 1st finger and filing with oil then squeeze until you see it sweat the oil out, kinda neat how it does it. Have fun!

Use a light coating of a good high pressure molybdenum spline grease on the spline and throw-out bearing sliding surfaces as well as on the yoke and fulcrum pressure points (refer to FSM for the exact locations).

Also remember to use a thread locking compound on the pressure plate bolts.

Use long head bolts in the back of the engine to align the transmission.

You may have to slam the transmission fairly hard into the engine to make them mesh.

I installed my race engine last night by myself so it's fresh in my head. I had it bolted up in about 20 minutes. Easy job. :-)

Make sure the clutch fork and collar are on the trans. Jack up the front of the trans until it almost hits the firewall. You want it angled upward. Attach the chain to the engine so it's tilted at the same angle. Make sure your motor mounts are on the engine. Lower the engine in slowly. Once it's close to lining up with the clutch carefully sllip your hand between the engine and trans to feel how close the trans shaft is to lining up with the clutch. Raise or lower the engine as needed and check again. Once the shaft starts to go into the clutch look at the block to trans gap. You want it to be the same at the top and bottom. Raise or lower the engine and/or trans as needed. Push and wiggle the engine onto the trans. At some point (if you have it lined up properly) it'll pop into place. Bolt the trans to the engine, remove the jack from under the trans and bolt on the motor mounts. Done!

Chuck

Dont forget to center the clutch disc before tightening the pressure plate? It sounds simple but people have dont it.:stupid:

Chas

Oh i forgot to say, both engine and tranny are out of the car. I got to mate them in garage floor, but i have proper equipment (engine jack). I have asked this before and cannot remember who answered and what. I have 2 types of collars, long and short. If i remember correctly, long one came out 4 speed. Should i use it in this too, as my clutch kit is for 240z..

Do checks... this is important. My bad memory seems to remember there being a relation between the pressure plate thickness and the collar height.

Do checks... this is important. My bad memory seems to remember there being a relation between the pressure plate thickness and the collar height.

That's what I'm thinking too. Long collar with thinner 240Z clutch. Short collar with taller 280Z clutch. Combined height on both is the same.

Chuck

Good. Turns out i've asked this same question last year, just found it. Thanks for all the input!

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/47516-4spd-release-bearing-vs-5spd-release-bearing.html

Im going in with the bigger collar.

Edited April 10, 201311 yr by Reverend

I might have asked this too, but do you need to balance flywheel and clutch kit? Im not having any fancy cam mods (yet)

I didn't on mine, just cleaned the flywheel with steel wool and some fine grit sandpaper. Took the shine off the mating surface.

One thing to keep in mind is lightening the flywheel. The standard flywheel is made for general use so even Grandma can change gear without getting wiplish. There are some drawings in other threads in this forum showing where to take metal off to lighten the flywheel.

My car is standard EFI and they dont like to many mods, but the flywheel made it a lot more responsive.

Chas

The distance from the flywheel to the surface on the collar that the clutch fork rides on should be about 92 mm. Lay the pressure plate down and set the collar on the fingers to take the measurement.