LeonV said:

Very well could be!

My EDIS module and relay/fuse panel rests where that button used to be...

sorry you lost me there .

what are you referring to when you said "very well could be"

  zcool1 said:

sorry you lost me there .

what are you referring to when you said "very well could be"

It was in reference to Steve's post, which I quoted in my reply.

Steve was referring to the big, red emergency start button in the engine bay which bypasses the interlock.

  LeonV said:

It was in reference to Steve's post, which I quoted in my reply.

Steve was referring to the big, red emergency start button in the engine bay which bypasses the interlock.

Thanks , do i need to hold onto that button while my buddy tries to crank the motor?

also what can i do to permenantly bypass interlock if that is the issue causing no power to starter?

"currently doing some homework for my smog inspector licensing classes so ill check the car again later"

As Steve has suggested a few times, download the FSM and check out the BE section.

thanks already downloaded from xenon website

ok took seats out and unplugged connectors under driver and passenger seat.

Also went with multi-meter and checked starter for good connections from positive cable and ground cable (both checked out good.)

Double checked Fuse box all fuses good .

unplugged and plugged back in connectors on passenger side.

also unplugged seat belt connectors.

Battery hooked up to charger on starting mode.

Tried cranking and still no deal still zero volts going to spade on starter.

at a lost now

Okay, now that you have torn up everything and gotten yourself frustrated, let's see if we can put you back on the right path.

Most people monkey around with the interlock relay to try to fool it. I believe there is an easier way. The emergency switch will bypass it nicely.

As a test:

1. Unplug the emergency switch from the engine harness.

2. Locate the blue wire and the yellow/black (stripe) wire.

3. Use a short length of 12 AWG wire and jumper those wires together at the plug.

4. Try starting your car.

By the way, the scary part of your pictures is seeing the splicing in there. I wonder what the PO was doing.

Also, it looks from your fusebox that you have a late 260Z. If you don't mind sharing, what is the build date on the VIN tag in the door jamb?

I have found that Nissan moved some components around between the early and late 260Zs. If people don't know you have a late car, they may tell you to look in the wrong place for certain components.

thanks for the info ill get a picture of the tag on the door .

I really have no idea what the po was doing to the car when i got to that mess i was really worried that something could have been messed up which would need alot more time to trace and find. my reaction was just *WTF is this*

unfortunately i wont be able to try jumping the car today as im leaving for sacremento for a month.

Edited April 11, 201311 yr by zcool1

picture of the tag on the door

ill do some more reading up on the car while im away. will update more once i get back

will be heading back to L.A to tinker with the car on monday.

*itching to get this Z running*

Yep, you have an 11/74 build date. This is important for you to know. For example your gas tank is more like a 75 gas tank than a 73. That means you have to look for parts such as the sender, filler, vent hoses, etc. that will work for a 75.

thanks for the heads-up

things on the list right now

1-get starter working

2-get gas cap *for really large opening filler neck that no auto part store has*

3-see if car will start or if theres any other problems.

4-rust repair

5-need to get new rubber for wheels