260z doesn't crank

[zcool1]

Thanks for the informative response

i'll check all that tomorrow morning

as for the ztherapy option its too pricey for me.

I'm just trying to get the car run at the moment.

progress so far

Car doesn't crank > Fixed

Cranking but no fuel > Fixed

Starts at basically Wide open throttle foot off the pedal.

oh and when i serviced the carbs i did make sure all linkage was lubed up nicely and was able to move freely.

cleaned pistons and needles making sure they move up and down nice.

just Really at a lost at why it would start and rev up really high without me being even on the gas.

[Captain_Zeros]

If it's any consolation, my Z that sat for 10 years or so before I got it did the very same thing after I installed the SU carbs that came in a box in the trunk, fired it up and WOOSH high revs. Sadly I forget what the final 'cause of it ended up being, but never rule out a previous owner monkeying with all the knobs on the carbs for no reason, luckily mine were set pretty close to "functional" and I mostly had to just make sure the floats weren't doing anything silly and the linkages were all in order. The idle screw and balance screw are probably the easiest things to check and could be your culprit, just make sure neither of them are holding the throttle open other than a couple turns of the idle screws so the butterflies don't seal off your intake.

Edit: got distracted, my if it's any consolation Z did the same thing and it turned out to be a simple setting fix and then it ran great, so don't freak out.

I can't afford a Ztherapy rebuild either, it's all the more incentive to learn as much as I can :stupid: (and try and help out other folks too)

Edited May 24, 2013 by Captain_Zeros

[zcool1]

choke cable doesnt move nozzles at all its completely siezed so took carbs off and soaking in pb blaster penetrating oil.

not sure how long its going to take before they loosen up.

also re-adjusted idle screw per post above by captain.

[zcool1]

cleaned out nozzles now they can move freely.

new problem car starts but seems like starter wont disengage even though the engine is already running.

[zcool1]

can some one show me a picture of how their starter is wired up please, i just want to make sure i got it right and i did look at the FSM.

weird problem starter now does not turn over . positve , negative cables are HOT to touch and so is the starter itself.

the wire circled i dont know where that goes... but it seems to give power to acc .

[Captain_Zeros]

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/40086-pic-73-240z-starter.html

I don't imagine the 260z starter is too different, but here is how a late 240 starter is wired.

[zcool1]

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/40086-pic-73-240z-starter.html

I don't imagine the 260z starter is too different, but here is how a late 240 starter is wired.

thanks , now i know i got the starter wired up right , but i still cant figure out why the negative and positive cables including the starter itself:stupid: are hot to touch and starter doesnt want to turn on.

battery is good 12.6v and starter is new had the auto part store test it before i bought it .

[Zed Head]

Show another picture of what you have now, including a better shot of the actual lugs on the solenoid that you're using,and a shot of the battery posts. Looks like you have things backwards in post #53, but it's not clear which of the cables is positive and which is negative.

I hope you're not leaving the hot-to-touch wires connected for long.

[zcool1]

Show another picture of what you have now, including a better shot of the actual lugs on the solenoid that you're using,and a shot of the battery posts. Looks like you have things backwards in post #53, but it's not clear which of the cables is positive and which is negative.

I hope you're not leaving the hot-to-touch wires connected for long.

thanks for the quick response , ill go get a picture and post it in a few minutes:classic:

[zcool1]

heres how my battery and starter are connected.

both starter and cables get hot and dont turn on.

[Zed Head]

Looks right. My mistake, I didn't realize the alternator charge wire was in the picture. Also didn't read all of the previous posts. Did anything significant happen between Post #49 and #53? And what did you mean in Post #52? Something weird happened, you had the wires right before, why do you think that they're wrong now?

When you say they get hot, do you mean when you turn the key to Start, all the time, or when the key is just On? And, if you mean when you use Start, do you hear a click from the solenoid first?

Heat comes from current flow, and if you have current flowing but nothing's turning that would indicate something bound up. Or your battery is just too dead to turn the engine, but has enough juice to generate some heat. That's a possibility. Charge the battery and retry.

[zcool1]

between #49 and #53 i fixed the stuck nozzles and got the car to start but the starter was continously on even after the engine had started.

next day starter didnt work, then i went to the store and got a new one and had it tested there as well (good new starter).

installed it and it only cranked for a second then everything stopped working cables got hot starter got hot and battery voltage was at 12.8 with charger connected set on 12v 10 amps .

tried without charger and same results , just heard starter click once and everything started to get hot battery voltage dropped to around 12.5 after trying to crank it.

*frustrated* one problem after another.