1978 280Z 2+2 Cylinder Head Removal

[MillerTime802]

Well, the rebuild was going very well. I, and a couple of my King if the Hill neighbors, figured out we could totally build the head, intake, and exhaust manifold and put the entire thing on at one time. Worked like a dream.

All went perfect till the cam chain tension block was inadvertainly pulled out and the darn tensioner sprung out......el crappo. I'm now trying to figure out how to fix this darn issue. I thought is be finished tonight.

Edited April 20, 2013 by MillerTime802

[siteunseen]

Dale and Boomhauer are your neighbors too? Those beers are better with grease on them. I've read on other sites, where people really blow there own whistles, that it could be put back with a long screwdriver. After putting a new timing kit on when I rebuilt mine I don't think there's anyway to do it but I'm amazed at some things I've seen done to these old cars. Google might find something on that, I could not. That car has found it's Mechanic and vice versa.

[MillerTime802]

@ siteunseen: I assume I need to remove the front cover plate to reinstall the tensioner, correct? I need to find an exploded view of the parts components. Do you have any tips to share? Thanks, Brad.

[240260280z]

[siteunseen]

There's a lot of people that have had the same thing happen. You or your daughter should google different phrases and click on images too. I've read that you should be careful with the head gasket when removing/replacing the front cover while the head is still on. I would take that inspection plate off first just to see what you can, front of the head with 3 bolts, you might figure out a way without taking off the front cover. Hopefully you might see a way after a few cold dogs and discussing it with your helpful neighbors. We'll be here waiting to help. Blue's the Man by the way, and you've got his attention/sympathy.

[MillerTime802]

Thanks Blue ans SiteUnseen. I'll take a quick look and get back with you. Unfortunately, for the next 2 weeks I have to take care of my business and can't work on it. I'll keep you guys updated on the progress. Appreciate the help Brad.

[siteunseen]

Here's something to look at while TCB'ing http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/46186-installing-timing-chain-when-rebuilding-motor-stand.html

Courtesy of Blue.

[MillerTime802]

Update; Sunday evening: Went to Church this morning, said a little prayer asking God to help me find the skills and inner being to get that darn tensioner back in place w/o disassembly of the front timing chain cover plate.

Came back home, invented a few make shift tools to reach into the small place to reposition the tensioner. Almost got it in, but couldn't. Took a break and waited for one of my King if the Hill neighbors to come over.

After a couple of beers, he got up and grabbed a couple of long screw drivers, and within 5 minutes, had the tensioner reinstalled in its operating position. With another screw driver and the wood tensioner block I made, I installed the spacer block, installed the cam sprocket, and installed the chain.

I checked all my timing marks and the darn thing appears to be in the correct position. Holy Moly, thanks to the man above for not giving me the ability, but my neighbor. I can now leave for vacation feeling "relatively confident" that when I return, I can finish and start the motor.

Yee hawwwww! Thank you all for supporting me with your most excellent knowledge and auto mechanics advice.

Brad.

[Zed Head]

You never mentioned the replacement head. Another N47?

That's a key fact also about two screwdrivers. Most accounts that I've seen only mentioned one.

[MillerTime802]

I used the P79 head with the "K" cam since I couldn't find the stock head, quickly. I used my micrometer to discover the K cam opens the valves about 0.008" less than the stock head, both intake and exhaust. Valve diameter for the "A" and "K" were the same, best I cold mic.

I realize the compression ratio drops approx. .78:1 with the P79 head, but with this high mileage motor, perhaps the compression drop is better than compression increase????

Using an old trick to verify the valves will clear the piston top, I made a very thin "pancake" out of silly puddy, placed it on top of the piston (stock dished), installed the head (w/o the cam chain) and easily turned the cam to open and close both valves in piston #1 at top dead center.

The valves made an impression in the silly puddy, but didn't penetrate it to the top of piston. So, I know the valves won't hit the pistons. Of course removing the head to check and remove the silly puddy.

Screw drivers: Two of them, both very long, one thin to position the tensioner, the other thicker to push the shaft (and tension pad) back into the setting block's hole (thus compressing the spring). Once back in its operating position, he held it compressed or all the way in while I reinserted the spacer block of wood between the interior faces of the chain, as instructed in the FSM.

OF particular note, I left the hood on and used a bungee cord to stretched between the chain and the hood latch above, to control a relatively loose chain so I could manipulate the tensioner.

The bungee had a large plastic end (home depot) so I could turn the crank and/or cam to perfect alignment to TDC, and to align the cam sprocket with its setting pin.

All this sounds good, but we'll see if all works when or if she fires up. I'll post the results in a couple of weeks. Thanks again.

Edited April 22, 2013 by MillerTime802

[siteunseen]

I knew it when she did it. My Mom shouldn't have thrown away my Silly Puddy just because I's eating it.

Way to go Miller Time!

[240260280z]

Congrats on getting that tensioner back in! I am impressed.