Heater Issues, Coolant Leak, and a charging issue? Please help, rally coming up!

[akre28]

So a few months ago (august 2013 ish), my Dad bought a 1977 280Z, we really like it and has been fairly good so far, but recently things have been heading a little south.

First, we started noticing that after driving it, the passenger side of the front window would fog up, my Dad and I never thought much of it, I had just assumed it was something old cars did. But upon further inspection after a tip off from one of my friends, I found that the carpet on the passenger side was SOAKED in coolant. Yes, I know, how we didn't notice is completely beyond my understanding.

But, I got to work.

I pulled off the center console, labeled everything for later, and plastic bagged all the hardware. Re-did some of the HORRIBLE wiring for the stereo the previous owner did, and pulled the blower unit, fairly easy to get access (other than having to stand on my head).

But i'm starting to get get fairly fed up with this issue. :mad: I have replaced the two lower coolant hoses with better condition ones purchased from the junkyard, after getting it all together, it still leaked, this time I actually looked to see where it was leaking from, turns out it was the upper hose, so went to NAPA picked up the PERFECT heater line, cut it to length, and slapped her on (obvious this took about 3 hours to swearing and complaining to do all that). Also got rid of all the stupid Nissan ring tie things, and replaced them with new jubilee clips.

So again, got her all back together, filled her back up with water, (cleaning the block out of really brown coolant) and for a little while, I thought I fixed her, got her up to temperature, it started smoking a little bit from the under the dash, I ignored it, and continued to warm her up (should I be worried? :paranoid:) and what do you know, after getting her all warmed up, I turned the HVAC temperature gauge on the center console from hot to cold, starts GUSHING hot water on to the floor, from the top of the plumping that controls the temperature inside the car.

We have a rally coming, this Saturday actually, and we would really like to have heat (not a huge deal if we cant, but having it is preferred), but my question is, can I replace this assembly from Nissan? or can I replace the seal that has inevitably failed over time, or that I caused it to fail, during my swearing escapade.

And if I cant get parts within my deadline, is there any issue to me putting bolts that fit into the coolant lines that feed the interior, making sure they don't leak of course, just as a temporary setup so it doesn't leak?

My second issue, is we have had some kind of charging problem. Every time you start it, the "CHG" light comes on from the volts gauge, so I pulled the alternator, had it tested, failed, bought a re manufactured one from o'reilly's, (not ideal, but it will do the job). Surprise, surprise, it didn't fix it.

I can rev it under no load, up to 5K ish and the light will turn off briefly, but come back on. Any ideas? The Volts read about 12ish volts. The car hasn't left me stranded, but its only started happening the last few times I've gone to drive it, within the last month, it is starting to sound a little different when I do go to start it, like its a little harder than it use to be, it has what looks to be a fairly new battery, but I have yet to check the actually health of the battery. One thing also worth mentioning, I think right around the same time the "brake" light stays on after lowering the e-brake, but eventually turns off after a little while of driving, weirdest thing. Just thought i'd mentioned it.

The car just recently got all new suspension, Eibach Pro-kit progressive rate springs, and KYB shocks, and we also flushed new brake fluid while we had to bleed the car anyway.

So any and all help well be greatly appreciated, ill be checking back regularly for any questions you guys have.

Thank you for making it to the end of my massive post, hope there is someone who can help.

Thanks

-Kyle

[SteveJ]

1. Have you downloaded the FSM? It has directions on testing the charging system.

2. Did you test/replace the voltage regulator? Unless your car has been modified, the voltage regulator is external to the alternator.

3. You can get another heater core from Black Dragon, but you may need a new heater ©0©k as well.

[ferrariowner123]

Yes, I do have the FSM, I totally forgot that I have it, I'll have to check in there, but my main question, was can I block the heater lines without causing any issues for the rally?

And isn't the voltage regulator built into the alternator? The guys at orielly's were telling me it was. (but who knows how reliable they are)

It's not the heater core that's leaking, it's the temperature control system. Because it only leaks when I close the valve that let's hot coolant into the core. It's like some kind of seal that has failed I'm assuming. It has a linkage that controls that valve and then some kind of unshielded thick gauge copper wire like that heads somewhere towards the center of the dashboard, not sure what it's for.

Thanks for the help

-Kyle

[SteveJ]

I am not stepping into the middle of the block vs loop debate. There are plenty of threads on here and over at Zcar.com on that subject.

As for internally regulated vs external regulator, who are you going to trust? A parts guy reading a generic list or me & the FSM & the parts manual? If you installed an internally regulated alternator when you have an external voltage regulator, your charging system will NOT function properly. Also, you should load test the battery if it got drained.

By the way, the official change to an internally regulated alternator was in 78. What is the build date of your car?

[Stanley]

Read a post here that said if the windshield fogs up it means the core's leaking, but I don't really know. Here's a shot on the corroded valve on my 240 - don't know if the 280 one is similar. Also a shot of my heater loop, with a restrictor (hose clamp with piece of radiator hose for a cushion) I put a couple days ago. The restrictor cuts down the amount of hot coolant recycled to maybe 25% of what it would be without it. Just temporary.

Don't know if this helps.

[bartsscooterservice]

Mine was leaking to, but it was the core, and my dad soldered it. But if the valve is leaking, look for another one on a yunkjard maybe? Don't know if there are any around with Z's in your area.

My valve was stuck to, but sprayed it with wd40 and gently loosened it up, it still holds I think if I would have ripped it open without using some lube, it would have damaged the seal.

[akre28]

1. Have you downloaded the FSM? It has directions on testing the charging system.

2. Did you test/replace the voltage regulator? Unless your car has been modified, the voltage regulator is external to the alternator.

3. You can get another heater core from Black Dragon, but you may need a new heater ©0©k as well.

So here is what i got after testing the alternator today.

Engine off at battery

Running at alt

At battery

And just in-case it was of any help, i took some pictures of the original alternator wired up, and then some of how i wired it up, does this look right?

And then my random wiring next to the battery, i know its not pretty, i really want to redo it, but im just showing it so you can tell me if you see some DISASTROUS issue going on in there.

I am not stepping into the middle of the block vs loop debate. There are plenty of threads on here and over at Zcar.com on that subject.

As for internally regulated vs external regulator, who are you going to trust? A parts guy reading a generic list or me & the FSM & the parts manual? If you installed an internally regulated alternator when you have an external voltage regulator, your charging system will NOT function properly. Also, you should load test the battery if it got drained.

By the way, the official change to an internally regulated alternator was in 78. What is the build date of your car?

Ill just loop it, either way doesn't sound like an issue to me, plus the loop still maintains flow.

And that's exactly what i meant when i said "don't know how reliable they are" when i was talking about the the voltage regulator, so ill take a look at the FSM and see what i'm looking for.

She was built February 1977, so im assuming that means i have an external regulator.

Read a post here that said if the windshield fogs up it means the core's leaking, but I don't really know. Here's a shot on the corroded valve on my 240 - don't know if the 280 one is similar. Also a shot of my heater loop, with a restrictor (hose clamp with piece of radiator hose for a cushion) I put a couple days ago. The restrictor cuts down the amount of hot coolant recycled to maybe 25% of what it would be without it. Just temporary.

Don't know if this helps.

That looks WAY different from what im seeing under my dash.

Here is what i am looking at

EDIT: How do you know if the voltage regulator is bad? The FSM shows a way to adjust it and i just found mine in the super hidden location, and i see no obvious way for the cover to come off, Im going to order one in the mean time to get it here before the week is out, but here is hoping that its the problem.

-Kyle

Edited April 15, 2013 by akre28

[SteveJ]

Kyle,

Just getting a new voltage regulator isn't the answer if you purchased an internally regulated alternator.

You can easily do the voltage test in the EE section, even if you cannot adjust the voltage regulator. Keep in mind, though, that you CANNOT test the voltage regulator with an internally regulated alternator.

I suggest that you get to know your car better before you attempt to take it out on a rally.

[ferrariowner123]

Yeah, I agree, I should have looked into it a little more, but I'm leaning more towards the regulator, because the original alternator, looks identical to the one I put in, so I'm hoping the auto store employee was wrong. So I'll report back with what I find.

I'm going to check on the alternator and make double sure of my assumption insuring that it's not an internally regulated alternator, I'm really hoping it isn't because then I'm really screwed.

Thanks anyway for the help, should have looked a little harder before asking.

-Kyle

[SteveJ]

The 280Z car's wiring can be modified to utilize an internally regulated alternator. It is well-documented in Blue's tech tips. You have to know what you're dealing with first, though.

[akre28]

The 280Z car's wiring can be modified to utilize an internally regulated alternator. It is well-documented in Blue's tech tips. You have to know what you're dealing with first, though.

It wasn't, I read the conversion post over on tech tips, non of the wires that lead to the regulator have been altered.