Did I wire this wrong? No spark

[grannyknot]

Trying to start L28 engine that I've just put into a 70/240z

-rotor and cap are new

-spark plugs and wires used but in good condition

-newish Pertronix 3.0 ohm coil

-GM HEI ignition module

red and green wire from magnetic p/u from distributor,

red going to W and green going to G on the HEI

yellow wire coming from B (HEI) going to positive on coil and red wire coimg from C (HEI) going to negative on coil

Existing black wire going to negitive on coil, existing black/white wire going to positive on coil.

Existing blk/white and grn/white resistor wires jumpered together

Spark plug wires are correctly numbered

153624 in a counter clockwise direction from the mark on the cap.

Thanks,

Chris

Edited April 20, 2013 by grannyknot

[grannyknot]

Okay, solved one problem, I removed the grounded black wire from the neg side of the coil and it starts right up but only runs for 1-2 seconds then shuts down.

Re-starts easily but shuts down again in 1-2 seconds, it's got to be electrical, the fuel pumps works just fine.

Chris

[Zed Head]

Are you using carbs or EFI? The problem sounds typical of the fuel pump contact in the AFM switch not completing the circuit, due to low air flow or being out of adjustment. Or, if it's a 78 or later system, the oil pump switch or alternator are not feeding the right fuel pump control relays.

[grannyknot]

More info, if I mash the gas pedal and keep the revs at 4000 I can keep the engine running but as soon as the revs come down under 4000 rpm the engine dies and there is a kind of back fire through the carbs and a bit of smoke coming out of the air filters but no flame. I didn't touch the timing from when it was running last but I did block off the vacuum advance on the distributor.

[grannyknot]

Zed, I'm using carbs, triples SK/OERs. I haven't adjusted them since the engine ran last fall. I have purposefully disconnected the Oil pressure switch so that couldn't mix things up. I have the fuel pump running off of the blk/white ignition wire and it is running.

It runs at 4000rpm but dies if I go under that with back firing through the carbs, that sounds like a timing problem to me but I can't see how that would be, I haven't even losened the distributor base.

Edited April 20, 2013 by grannyknot

[Zed Head]

Figgers.

Since you've confirmed spark (it stays running at 4000 RPM), you might draw more attention with a new title containing the word carburetor. The carb guys and the wiring guys tend to be two different groups. Good luck.

[grannyknot]

Please disregard this thread as I have solved the original problem, I'll start a new thread concerning the current problem.

Thanks,

Chris