Steve, with the ignition off I get 12.78 v at the battery and alternator,

with the ignition key set to on I get 12.66 v at the battery and alternator.

Does that say anything?

Again, I have a light grasp on electrical and no grasp on electronic.

Chris

Timing belt on the wrong set up?

Nothing diagnostic. You are powering some circuits, including the coil with the key ON and car not running. That's causing the voltage drop.

I think that he meant the L wire at the T plug, not the white charging wire. L is the exciter wire, you should see close to battery voltage there with the key On, engine not running, at the connector, disconnected. Actually you should see close to battery voltage at both pins in the T connector.

Edit - I'm guessing the reply was to madkaw Steve.

Edited April 22, 201311 yr by Zed Head

All, just tested voltage at the T connector alternator side, upper terminal of the T

the yellow wire 0.00 v with ignition key on or off.

Lower terminal of the T connector, alternator side the white w/black strip wire reads 0.01 v with ignition key on or off. This doesn't look good, the alternator is brand new Bosch unit from MSA. The power wire to the alternator still reads 12.66 v.

You want to test the other side, female, on the harness side. You have your clip on the alternator side.

You want to test the other side, female, on the harness side. You have your clip on the alternator side.

Boy, it's nice you guys are so patient with me!

Wiring harness side, ignition key off, white w/blk strip wire 0.00v

Wiring harness side, ignition key off, yellow wire 12.70v

Wiring harness side, ignition key on, white w/blk strip wire 12.00

Wiring harness side, ignition key on, yellow wire 12.60v

Edited April 24, 201311 yr by grannyknot

Well it seems that you have exciter voltage, so if the alternator is good, then your okay.

When you purchased your alternator- did they test it before you took it home.

I haven't had much luck with rebuilds.

The wet plugs part bothers me. It sounds ignition to me. Maybe you did fry your hei or there's not enough voltage to run it properly. It's not as forgiving as the old points set up

I got the alternator shipped to me from Motorsport Auto, and it looks brand new.

With ignition on- what voltage at the coil+

The more I have read, the HEI hates low voltage- even for starting .

You can still test it at any parts store

With ignition key on voltage at the + side of coil is 12.70v

It just occurred to me that I have the original 2.4L engine sitting in the corner of the shop with a perfectly working distributor and Pertronix ignition module.

Is there any reason why I can't just swap these distributors?

I probably have another 3-4 days before the replacement HEI arrives in the mail.

Chris

Edited April 24, 201311 yr by grannyknot