I took a quick video trying to get my Z started, I figured if you guys could see what's happening maybe you could give me some tips.

Here's the link to the video:

Thanks everyone!

Seems like your injectors might not be firing. Have you measured voltage at the injector connectors? You need 12 volts on each pin (seems weird but it's right that way).

Does the tachometer needle move when it starts on starter fluid? The blue wire from the negative terminal of the coil feeds the ignition module, the tachometer and the ECU. If you really want to confirm things are right, take the ECU connector off and measure continuity from Pin 1 to the negative side of the coil.

The tach moves when I start it, I'll have to check the connections and continuity at the ECU connector.

I would just check power at the injector connectors and continuity to Pin 1 at the ECU. If you don't have power to the injectors, then check the circuit that supplies power through the dropping resistors. Maybe someone unplugged them for some reason.

All of the other stuff seems okay. Moving the AFM flapper will power the fuel pump which could cause the FPR to make a noise. Once the fuel rail gets pressure the engine should run for at least a few seconds until pressure drops. Yours sounds like it's only running on the starter fluid fumes. But even that indicates that ignition is okay, it's fuel to the cylinders that's missing.

If I didn't spray the starter fluid into the intake it still would've started up. Which makes me think the cold start injector might be working, but maybe the other 6 aren't getting power or aren't getting voltage. I have a new fuel pump coming on thursday, but I don't want to replace it if I don't have to. I'd rather have the stock pump and not the airtex that I've heard so many bad reviews on.

Fuel, air, spark.

Since the engine fired, let's focus on fuel.

1. What is the fuel pressure when you try to start the car?

2. What is the fuel pressure when the key goes from START to ON?

3. Is the ECU properly grounded? Do a continuity check from pins 5, 16, 17, and 35 on the ECU connector on the wiring harness to ground.

4. Are you getting voltage to the dropping resistors?

5. Remove the clip from an injector. One side should have voltage to ground. The other side should periodically have continuity to ground when the injector is firing.

If you don't have the FSM and a wiring diagram, I suggest you download them. Also download the 280Z/ZX fuel injection book. Read the EF section of the FSM and the fuel injection book.

Reading and doing tests is a lot cheaper and smarter than throwing parts at the problem.

If you don't know how to use a multimeter, go to this link: Some Electrical Basics and Troubleshooting | Fiddling With Z Cars and follow the link to the YouTube video on how to use a multimeter.

4. Are you getting voltage to the dropping resistors?

5. Remove the clip from an injector. One side should have voltage to ground. The other side should periodically have continuity to ground when the injector is firing.

If he gets power to the injectors he has power to the dropping resistors.

And, the transistors used to "ground" the injectors still show 12 volts to the side of the connector that they're grounding. It's one of those confusing things with the solid state EFI system. Low current, high current. I'm no electronics whiz but I did get caught for a while on the weird injector connector measurements in the past.