I just recently glass beaded my SU's plus sent all the hardware for zinc plating. I dont know can you call that a rebuild but anyhow. I tried to start the engine and first i did not notice anything until it made couple loud POP's. Then i went to see and saw it was squirting fuel everywhere. Mainly from that big bolt on float bowl.

Does it have some sort of gasket or o-ring? cause i dont have any.. It leaks like crazy and i cannot start the engine.

Also, what would be the best settings to start the car, as i have dismantled and rebuilt carbs. Jet up or down or something between? I have FSM and unisyn but first i need to get it running and warmed up...

I really appreciate if you would help me fast, i need to get this baby running, wednesday is a big car show... :/

I removed the bolt and checked if there was anything blocking the fuel, there was not. Also decent amount of gas in float bowl.

2 washers on the big bolt, and a paper gasket on the float bowl, I used liquid gasket, works so far.

Found a reason for the popping and coughing... Engine is at TDC and dizzy should be pointing down to the left, to 1 cylinder. Instead its pointing upwards.

So i guess im taking the oil pump off and try to put the shaft right way back, right?

Quick and dirty is to re-plug the spark plugs on the distributor by 180 degrees:

instead of 153624

go 624154

you should be able to start it and run. Move the oil pump/distributor after you try this.

NOTE: Backfiring in intake and exhaust when starting is usually a sign the plugs are in the wrong order.

Yea, thanks Blue! I think removing oil pump aint too complicated so im going that way, i wonder how many teeths that its off..

The trick is to get the engine at top dead center first.

One you do this then do this:

1. remove the distributor

2. drop the pump and spindle shaft (move the sway bar)

3. align the dots as per the FSM and push the pump and spindle into place

4. check the alignment of the keyed tip where the distributor goes (11:30 reference with small side forward) Repeat 2-4 until it is correct.

5. install the distrributor

Done that, thanks for the hint. Now new major problem emerged, more of that in HELP ME section... *sigh*

Got rid of all the previous problems. Now i have new one to solve I decieded to continue this old thread, so i wont flood the forums with my nonsense.

2 days ago in traffic lights, i smelled a strong fuel smell and engine started to idle rough, luckily i was almost at my destination and parked car in a minute. Rear fuel bowl was flooding over! Very weird thing indeed as i have driven about 300 miles with somewhat properly tuned (colortune) carbs. I adjusted the float but effect was that last 3 cylinders only fire up when rpms go over 2.5 K. Plugs were dry as desert. We opened up both float bowls and noticed that in rear one, that little jet is lower than in front carb. I have spare set of carbs so i took one jet out of it, except it is internally different than the other. Both have numbers 1-7 but internals are a bit different. Despite that i put the "new" jet on place and it started as usual, it runs much better now but i cannot get it to idle below 1000 rpms. It stutters and runs on 3 or less cylinders. over that rpm range, it runs great. So i guess i'll redo the balancing and idle settings but could there be something other causing this too?