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What is needed for a 1978 PFI 280Z to run?


pureZero

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I thought you were referring to something I can take off of it. I have a 1978 280Z, and I have my old 1990 300ZX still also. I got in an accident in the 300ZX a while ago, and I still haven't decided exactly what I want to do with it yet.

What I was saying is that the fuel injection book was updated in November 1975, an my car is a 78. It's fairly close, but there's enough of a difference that I'm not comfortable with relying on the guide. The FSM is a little bit better though. I have to trace down each and every wire to see what it is as well.

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I do have the injectors, and everything to install them, as well as a gasket kit. I also seem to have all the fuel lines except for most of the hoses. Anyone feel like taking a crack at telling me what all I'm missing?

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Here's a start.

That does help a little, thanks! Do you have a slightly more complete version of that though? I have the actual 78 wiring diagram printed out, which will help me greatly in tracing down the wiring.

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You can lead a guy to the FSM, but you can't make him open it. Har har hardy har. It's a bread crumb.

It's from the Engine Fuel chapter of the 1978 Factory Service Manual (FSM). That thing that we keep mentioning. From XenonsS30. It has smaller, specific wiring diagrams in it also, easier to work with than the the big one, although the big one is worth having also.

Not kidding! It will help you out.

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Just because I haven't looked through the FSM in over a week, that doesn't mean you can make fun of me for it :P haha

But yeah, I know it'll help me out. I just don't have enough time to do much of anything on the car on weekdays. There's a lot of things that I have to do on the car still, so my mind is going off in 10 other directions right now. Between cutting out the rust on the floor pans and patching them up (temporary, until I can afford to get new floor pans for it), repairing the few other spots of cancerous rust, getting it running, and getting it safe to drive (ie. new bushing kit and brake/clutch lines), and college, I have a lot on my plate.

The car's main saving grace is the fact that the inner fenders are completely solid, as are the strut towers. There's nothing that can't be fixed by someone with very little formal wire-feed welder experience, given that said person is extremely quick on the learning curve.

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If you can, print out the section you need to refer to, and bind it. I also have a cheep notebook that I use to draw out the diagrams, wiring, etc. so they make sense and make it easier to refer to when you work.

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What I mean is that I put the wiring diagram on the kitchen table, and start following and drawing the circuit (eg. brake lamps, turn signals,radio, thermotime/cold-start injector) I'm interested in into the notebook, with wire colors and any other notes, so I don't have to stop work to go back to the wiring diagram. It saves a lot of time. If I need to look up a circuit later, I already have it drawn in the notebook (Indexed of course.)

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]63068[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]63069[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]63070[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]63071[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]63072[/ATTACH]

Can anyone tell me why there seems to be third coolant port on the bottom of the block, below the thermostat housing?

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