There Goes The Clutch!!

[ninjazombiemaster]

After a year of jolly good fun, I'm pretty sure I've burned out my clutch.

It takes incredible amounts of engine power to translate into even the smallest amount of power to the wheels. The engine idles and revs up fine - but when put into gear and ready to go its a slow crawl forward. I've had the car since July, so nearly a year, and really don't know what kind of shape the clutch was in when I got it but needless burnouts at every stoplight do indeed lead to premature wear.

I am considering this kit: Heavy Duty Clutch Kit 1973 Nissan 240Z Base 2.4L l6

I'll have to make one last pathetic drive to the shop (hoping it makes it) where my DD will stay for days, until the part arrives. As far as I'm aware they can't be found locally here in Salt Lake City.

On a more positive not, that explains the recent loss of power and gas mileage! Here's to another year of peel-outs before inevitable clutch failure..!

[Darrel]

exidy

[steve91tt]

I run a BRUTE POWER / PERFECTION CLUTCH 92016B clutch in both my cars. Cheap and indestructible. I've got +6000 track miles on my Rebello powered track car and it's still going strong. I paid less than $80 for the kit which includes a bearing, bushing, collar and clutch.

[Zed Head]

A slipping clutch generates lots of heat, enough to destroy the flywheel. Crawling to the shop while it slips might not be a good idea.

[tlorber]

Just to be clear, are you hearing the engine rev when the clutch is supposed to be engaged?

[ninjazombiemaster]

You're right - it doesn't makes sense to risk destroying the flywheel to save $50 on a tow. That being said, I'd also rather not spend $50 on a tow.

I ended up getting that kit I linked too, but I found a better price on it. $100 even with free shipping. I'm expecting it in a day or two. Long term, I'd like to upgrade to a nice one, but this is really just a matter of getting my daily driver back on the road as soon as (and as inexpensively) as possible.

The engine revs when the clutch is supposed to be engaged like normal. Just almost none of that power gets to the wheels.

[ninjazombiemaster]

3 hours in the shop and shes back on the road. The wearing was on the pressure plate side of the disk, so the flywheel was actually in great shape.

Forgive that some of the photos are sideways. I uploaded them directly from my phone and it refused to let me rotate them.

Ready for a lift.

The new disk.

The old, very worn plate and disk.

The flywheel at the machine shop, getting a resurface for good measure.

Nearly back together..

I still need to adjust the clutch. It still seems to slip at higher RPMs - but it definitely grabs much better. I need to resolve that before I damage this one prematurely. I've never done it before, so any tips are appreciated.

[LeonV]

The procedure is in the FSM.

[ninjazombiemaster]

Ok. I'll check it out. It actually seems to have mostly self-resolved. But its always good to check anyway, since if the clutch doesn't disengage enough, its just needlessly wearing it down.

[Darrel]

check the holes where the pins holds things together at the pedal and clutch master, make sure there isn't any slop.

[ninjazombiemaster]

The FSM only mentions moving the lock nut on the Master push rod to about 8.Something inches. Is that really all there is to it?

[Captain_Zeros]

Yep, that's your only adjust point unless somebody has gone and replaced the slave cylinder actuator rod with an adjustable one.

Just adjust the linkage where the master attaches to the pedal until the clutch bite point is to your liking & the clutch fully engages and fully disengages.