Help....Z won't start

[Fred Sigarto]

I've been having problems with my 72 240Z. It started this past winter months, Came back home from Florida mid Feb.removed the coil wire and cranked it to circulate the oil, hooked it coil wire up, and it started. A month later, no start, dead battery. Recently I replaced the battery, and put in a new starter which I had for my other Z (10/69 FairladyZL). I installed a new voltage regulator from Motorsports Auto. It started right up. Drove it around, everything was fine, gauges working, battery charging. A week later, I went to start her up, heard the click of the relay, and nothing, except the noise of the electric fuel pump, the amp gauge was negative and the Tach was bouncing up to 2000 rpms. Checked the battery 12.53 volts, checked the battery on the Wifes 09 Altima Coupe, same voltage. Voltage regulators bad? both are new, fusible link?

[tamo3]

Did you check spark plug?

[siteunseen]

I think he's saying it won't turn over now.

[SteveJ]

1. Check the voltage while trying to start the car. Does it drop?

2. Check the voltage at the starter solenoid.

3. Check to see if your grounds are in good shape, especially to your solenoid.

If it is a relay you are hearing, it is the accessory relay. You may be hearing the solenoid. Figure out where the click is.

[Fred Sigarto]

click comes from the relay on lower passenger side panel, by the vent pull..... when the key is turned to accessories.

[SteveJ]

Okay, that is definitely your accessory relay. Do the other checks and get back to us on the results.

[AZ-240z]

Hello Fred,

I had the same, or similar, problem with my '71 Z. Turned out that the ignition key lock tumbler had worn out and was not engaging the electrical ignition

switch mounted on the back of this key lock by two small phillips screws. My indications were intermittent starting with the same accessory click you hear

from the passenger kick panel area.

I bought a new key lock assembly and problem solved. To check this on your car, it is possible to remove the plastic steering clam shell housings and unscrew

the ignition switch on the back of the ignition key lock. There is enough room to access this switch. Then, using a screw driver inserted into the electrical

ignition switch, turn the switch, which obviously by-passes the key lock, to see if your car starts.

Worn key locks on our early cars is a common problem. When removing the plastic steering column clam-shells, keep track of where each screw came from. I

think there are 5 screws holding these plastic covers together.

Good luck, and hope this explanation is clear enough.

Dan

[Fred Sigarto]

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll try to do them today.

[Fred Sigarto]

Couldn't work on the car over the weekend. Went to Indianapolis For my Nephew's wedding. He is an Assistant crew chief on Shawn Langdon Al-Anabi Top fuel Team. He started with Tony Schumacher 12 years ago. then switched. I read in another post about a Ford part that would work. Does anyone have the exact name or part # so I could stop at the Ford Dealership and pick it up. I did take off the cover around the steering column so I'll mess with that. ......thanks guys

[Fred Sigarto]

I removed the ignition switch like AZ-240z suggested. What a pain. I am handicapped with CMT so it took me awhile. Got it separated and turned the switch with a screwdriver all the way to the right and heard the solenoid click and then the electric fuel pump humming and the click-click-click of the starter motor. I had cleaned the connections prior to doing this and measured 12.54 volts at the starter. I had the Wife check the voltage while I turned the the switch and the voltage dropped slowing down to 12.45 volts and that was holding the switch for about 3-5 seconds. What next? I think I did check out the new starter before I put it in and it worked.

[Zed Head]

Sounds like the ignition switch works correctly but the solenoid may not be getting enough current to make and hold the contact. I don't know if there are multiple contacts in the switch or just one that splits though.

You could remove the small wire from the starter solenoid and attach a jumper. Take other end of the jumper and touch it to the battery positive post (basically a home-made remote starter). That should activate only the starter solenoid and the starter. That will take all of the wiring and relays out of the picture and focus only on the solenoid and starter. If it works correctly, the problem is somewhere in the wiring and relays/switches. If not the problem is still at the solenoid and starter.

Make sure the car's not in gear when you do that, since you won't have a foot on the clutch pedal or know where the shift lever is. People have run over their own feet doing this.

[Fred Sigarto]

I went to AutoZone and picked up that 4 pronged relay with the connections marked 85. 86, 87, & 30/51 for $11. I can't remember where I saw it and maybe read it wrong but there was the whole Ford solenoid that you swap in place of the Nissan one, more or less a direct substitute. Not noticeable. Purchased at a Ford Dealership, if so for what type and year car?