OK, so I took the connection apart under the dash per KTM's suggestion and started there. Hooked up my test light to the G/B and G/R wires and I'm getting power, but barely enough to light the test light bulb. Any ideas???

Did you connect one lead of the test light to the G/B and the other to the G/R? If so, you did it wrong. Shell out $20 for a multimeter and check the voltage of each wire to ground. Here's the key, though. The voltage from the turn signals will pulse. Also, check the measurement against what happens when you turn on the hazard lights.

ok Steve will do. I had a good ground on the test light and checked each separately and the light was just barely lighting. I have a multi meter, but based on how the light is flashing, I'd say the voltage is VERY low

Steve, I checked with a multi meter and with the signals on only, they pulse the voltage up to approx 10.2 volts. Pretty much the same for both sides. With the hazards on only, the voltage pulses up to maybe 10.5. This is with the car not running FYI. If these readings sound appropriate I assume my problem is downstream towards the rear of the car?

Edited May 22, 201311 yr by 5150 will
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This is where a better meter with a hold function is your friend. You can capture the max. An oscilliscope can do this, too, but it's a little overkill.

After looking at the circuit diagram I have online, I would say that I suspect the turn signal switch.

Thanks for all the help Steve. I really appreciate it. I'll dig into it a little more and see what I find out. Hopefully I can do some cleaning and get it working properly

Thanks for all the help with this guys. Apparently my turn signal switch is failing. I cleaned it some, but it's intermittent at best. I'm going to send it to Dave and have him go through it for me

hello all,

another turn signal switch question - i have a early signal switch (see image), it was working but has stopped and i swapped in a later model switch that works OK - it requires a bit of rewiring to work. when i use the lever to make the turn signal operate ( the switch is together ) it won't work, but if if i pull the switch box off and push the switch to either side it does work - i.e. the lever doesn't push the pin far enough to complete the circuit. so, has anybody pried the box open to solve this problem?

Don't know if this will help with visualization much. This is the turn switch in action as it is put through left turn, right turn and no turn for a January 1970 Z. It is an animation I made for a blog I haven't posted yet. It doesn't show the ball bearing on the end of a spring that rolls across the see saw part of the switch to make it move back and forth. Click to see the action.

Mike

Edited June 4, 201311 yr by Mikes Z car

thanks! that is pretty much what i suspected. so it looks like i need to open the box and flatten the contact plate ( with the 4 contacts ) a little. any tricks to the assembly disassembly?

thanks,

Ken

Turn Signal Repair | Fiddling With Z Cars

Steve, that is a terrific article on the turn switch. Nicely done, great pictures.

kenmataya, not sure but if flattening is done maybe the ball bearing has more freedom to come out of its hidey hole and could fall out when a turn is selected? Instead of flattening maybe consider bending down the flexible tabs the contacts on the see saw are mounted on? I wonder though, maybe if the contacts are cleaned the contacts are good then without any bending? Just thinking out loud here.

Thank you, Mike. Now that I have a better camera and a lot more switches to play with, I was thinking of re-doing that one. I liked your animated GIF, too.

I agree about not flattening the rockers. That won't improve the operation of the switch.