Is it worth buying??

[Smokey]

OK, the latest in my search for the "perfect" Z leads me to a 260Z. Now, I have not been considering a 260Z at all, until I see this add. Now all of a sudden, I am considering it. He lives about an hour and a half from me, so going to look at it will be a piece of cake. Tell me what you all think. Is it worth buying a 260 that is in this condition?

1974 DATSUN 260Z,Really nice Datsun 260Z, 6cyl, 2.6L, with less than 80,000 miles. Runs great. Fresh Jasper engine w/less than 500 miles. Two new Webber Redline 2barrel carbs with K&N filters. Rebuilt alternator & starter. New Borg and Beck clutch setup. New clutch hydraulic master cylinder & slave cylinder. Rebuilt brake booster. New front bumper & corner rubber. NOS door seals. Seats have new foam & new upholstery in factory original design. New driver's inside door panel. New left & right door armrests. New carpet. New drivers side mirror. New battery. New hatch struts. New dash caps. Transmission tight, rebushed shifter & new output seal. Original factory tinted glass, nice condition. 4 new tires and rims. All original emblems. Original owners manual, tool bag, jack, and wheel blocks. Body had small pitting in drivers & passenger floorboards & around rubber drain holes. Removed rust, sealed floor, treated with POR15 inside & out. Sealed floorboards with rubber sealant and removed loose undercoating and recoated. Body has some small dents from boxes on it while it has been garaged stored. I have too many 'toys' to devote anymore time to it. Exc car to finish a restoration on. More parts have been replaced, some parts on hand included in price.

It has 80K miles on it, and he is asking $4300 for it.

[Smokey]

Another 260 that I saw was a 350 conversion for $5500 dollars. I have no knowledge base on the V8 swaps. I also have no intention of going to shows with the car. Is this something that I should look at, or run away from?

[Bambikiller240]

I'd rather have the 260Z, from the limited info you posted on the other car

Regarding the V8 Z, need more information than just a picture. There are several methods to installing a V8, and QUALITY of the work can vary significantly. I'd do a LOT of research on how the car was modified, and the quality of the work before I'd buy a V8 Zcar.

PS The farther back towards the firewall that the engine is located, the better handling and (weight distributon) will be. The best method is said to be the "Jags That Run" installation method. That one gets the engine as close to the firewall as possible and is said to be superior to any other design for adding a V8 to a Z car.

The outer body on the V8 Z looks nice in the picture (from a distance), but you need much more info to make a wise decision.

[Gav240z]

I like the green one it's a better buy in my opinion a V8 ruins the car a straight 6 in it's place is another story *cough* RB26DETT. I'm more original than that anyway I like the L series so it's just my taste but if you ever wanted to go a V8 you have the option later. The green one seems to have a good history and little issues.

:classic:

PS: 260z's are nice but maybe holding out for a 240z will make you happier in the end. I know I love the 240z's rear lights much more.

[PWRCATZ]

The only thing you might want to check out is how the individual substantiates the 80K. If you are making a decision with that in mind, look at the documentation.

Why is a new Jasper engine in the car? If it is a 2.6 did the original have problems before 80K? How many owners? Not to say that it is not true but always "buyer beware".

These comments are only my 2 cents. You have to feel comfortable with the deal, but when plunking down money, ask the seller the hard questions and see how he/she answers.

[Smokey]

As always, thanks for your speedy replies. Of course, I am leaning towards the green one out of these two. The V8 caught me eye cause of the clean body, but I am not a big fan of putting a non Nissan motor in these cars. I have never really done much research on that aspect. Also, the V8 has been for sale for 6 months or more (If memory serves).

I will be talking to Green Z guy tonight while I am at work. Going to find out more about it. He sent me an E-mail this morning talking about the slight rust in the floorpan, that has been irradicated, sealed, and POR15'd. He continues to talk about pitting on the inside bottom of the driver's door. Not rusted through, he adds. Gonna have to find out if this is active rust, or if there was just no filler used after the repair.

Thanks for the question ideas, I plan on asking those "hard" questions tonight.

[Smokey]

Well, I talked to the man selling the green 260 tonight. He seems like a real nice person. He has had the Z since August 02 and has put about $5000 in it so far. This includes recovering and repadding the seats, the Jasper engine, Weber carbs, new driver door trim, and a new dash cap.

The motor was replaced after he bought it, because it had sat in a garage for some time. The motor had deteriorated to some degree, and he thought it would be better to put a new motor in. It is a rebuild L26, rebuilt to factory specs. Currently the only mechanical problem is the fuel pump near the tank that does not work. He says it is hard to start, but will start eventually and run just fine.

He says that the driver's side floor pan had some rust on it about where your heel would go. There were several pin holes through the metal. He cleaned all the rust out, and repaired it with a special epoxy that has the strenth of metal, and bonds like crazy glue. Then the whole area was treated with POR15. The underside was stripped of the original undercoating and replaced with a rubber type substance that is used in the beds of salt trucks.

He has access to all kinds of nifty stuff through contacts at his place of work. He has been restoring cars for many years, and they include an MG, and several Jeeps. From what I could gather, he is very knowledgeable in the resto game. This Z sounds like it is in wonderful condition. I will be going to see it on Sunday, weather permitting.

[Smokey]

One more quick question before I go and look at the car. Based on my research between the 240 and early 260, there is little difference. Of course, the motor is stroked, and the interior is a little different. Before the bumper change mid way through 74, is a 260 pretty much the same car as the 240? Would it be like putting a L26 in a '73?

I ask this cause I am still talking with the guy selling the '73. This car "sounds" to be in better conditon than the '73. If the motor has the larger displacement to overcome the emissions stuff, I would seriously consider it. I just don't want a "weak" car to start out with. It just would not be right for my V6 pickup to run stronger than a purebred Z.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by Smokey

.... is a 260 pretty much the same car as the 240? Would it be like putting a L26 in a '73?

Smokey:

The 260Z came with the same crappy "boat anchor" (flat-top" carburetors as the 73 240Z. Most people replace those carbs with either the early type "Round-Top" SU's or Webbers (which it looks like the green car has)

Basically it would be the same car as a 73. HOWEVER, The 72 and earlier 240Z's had a higher compression cylinder head and developed more horsepower that the 73's (and 74's); and the pre 73 bodies were slightly lighter in weight than the 73/74 bodies.

Other than the above, the differences are largely cosmetic.

[Smokey]

Well, I was going to go and look at the Green 260 this weekend. But the snow killed that plan. Guess I will have to wait till next weekend to go and check it out.

Been talking to the owner for a few days now, and have found out some more information on the car. It has been repainted (not sure when) with almost the factory #304 Green. The current owner advises that the passenger side quarter panel has been replaced. The only evidence of it is some brazing marks at the kick panel. Also, around the quarter window there is some evidence. The reason for the replacement is unknown.

Additionally, the electrical system needs some attention. The terminals are oxidized and will not give a solid connection. He states that the terminal need to be cleaned, and the fuse box needs to be gone through. This problem affects things like the tach, oil pressure guage, and other electrical items.

Are any of these things supposed to fly big red flags at me? Should I be weary of this Z?

Thanks for any advice or tips. I want a Z, but I want it to be a pleasant experience this time around.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by Smokey

Additionally, the electrical system needs some attention. The terminals are oxidized and will not give a solid connection. He states that the terminal need to be cleaned, and the fuse box needs to be gone through. This problem affects things like the tach, oil pressure guage, and other electrical items.

Are any of these things supposed to fly big red flags at me? Should I be weary of this Z?

Thanks for any advice or tips. I want a Z, but I want it to be a pleasant experience this time around.

How handy with electrical issues are you? I wonder what he means by "the fuse box needs to be gone through". Is it melted from current overload (or high rersistance)? Or is it just that the fuses are bad (and why are they)? Which terminals are oxidized? Battery terminals? Fuse box terminals? EVERY terminal throughout the car? Has the electrical system been butchered (mods, cut/spliced etc) by someone who (like me) doesn't know beans about auto electrical systems. I, myself; am always worried by "electrical issues".

Of course, I don't know JACK about electirical systems so any problem is a big one for me.

The photos posted don't show the Quarter panel that was replaced. Look it over real good. I'll let Enrique and other "body guru's" advise you on what to look for.

Don't count it out yet, but examine it carefully. Look under the dash to see if there is evidence of wiring being butchered. Splices, disconnected wires, the wiring loom opened, etc.

Be as thorough as possible in your inspection. Buy with your mind, not your heart.

Carl

[Smokey]

Thanks Carl!!

As far as the electrical issues go, it sounds pretty minor. No meltdown just corrosion on all the terminals. He has cleaned some in the fuse box, and under the hood. He says this will be time consuming at worst. He advised the tach would just cut out, and then come back on later. Same with oil pressure guage. The electrical fuel pump is also DOA (could be from the aforementioned electrical problem). There have been no fires, but unknown on electrical spaghetti under the dash.

The quarter panel, he says, was undetectable until he was washing it one day and saw the evidence by the dog leg. From what he says, the repair is good. I am just concerned with the gas filler and inner quarter. Those areas could have been opened up to rust, that can not be seen from outside.

My big question is why is he selling after owning only 6 months. During this 6 month period, he has recovered the seats, put the new motor in it, removed the surface rust from the drivers floor pan, and sealed both sides. He has removed the old undercoating and applied new undercoating (same stuff used in the beds of salt trucks). The trans has received new bushings, along with a new clutch. To top it all off, new dash cap, and 4 new wheels and tires. If it were me, after all that I would drive it for a while. Just makes me curious.