My passenger side window recently turned very stubborn. Towards the top of its travel it would get hung up, and I'd have to grip the glass and wobble it upwards while turning the crank. I took the door apart to investigate and found that the felt "track" that the window rides in at the back of the door seems to have torn or separated. When the window mechanism hits this spot it gets hung up. I liberally greased the felt and the other parts of the window mechanism and it helped a lot. I also had the driver door apart to fix the lock and I noticed the same separation in the felt, although the window still operates normally. Can anyone tell me if this is normal?

This is looking back towards the part of the door directly above the door handle. The camera is turned sideways, sorry about that. For some reason I wasn't able to reorient it. You can see an area of bare metal between the felt on the inside the door and the rubber on the outside.

Edited May 30, 201311 yr by bacarl

Worn window channel liner is pretty common and an easy fix. Check with MSA or BD for either of two styles: OE or aftermarket. I used aftermarket and found it very satisfactory - nice quality, a good fit and easy install. Be sure to buy all the pieces - upper and lower channel. Remove the stainless window frame, replace channel material, reinstall and align the frame.

Thanks Jim! Is this the part you're referring to? I wasn't able to find it just browsing around MSA, I had to search by the name you provided (window channel).

Motorsport! Door Window Channel Seal, Inside Door, 70-78 Z*, Reproduction - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

Also, can't the lower portion be replaced independent of the upper? Is it just good practice to replace both while the door's apart?

This is Rock Auto's catalog page - has a part number for the upper channel and shows the lower, but no part number for the lower... presumably the MSA part linked above is the same part. I wish MSA had more photos on their site.

Do either the upper or lower require adhesive to install? The FSA doesn't cover any interior stuff and I haven't gotten myself a Haynes-type book yet.

Edited May 31, 201311 yr by bacarl

Bryan,

Your link is to what I called the lower piece, i.e. inside the door at the rear. Here is the link to the upper piece - for the the visible part of the frame. In MSA terms, you use a "top" and "inner" per door.

Motorsport! Door Window Channel Seal, Top, 76-78 280Z, Reproduction - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

Yes, these pieces can be replaced seperately. Given the relative low cost and that the frame has to come out, it is usually easier to do all of them at the same time. I recall that I used some weatherstrip adhesive to fix them in place overnight before putting the frame back in. These are the repro pieces I bought from MSA. I think your catalog page is from BD, not Rockauto.

Jim

You're right, it's a BD catalog page. I had a Rock Auto order going too... getting hectic Thanks for all your help!

There are other causes for sticking windows. Here's a link to a great technical article on adjusting door parts.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/articles-our-members/15177-door-window-problems-checks.html

I didn't realize there were sever pieces per door. I thought there was a single felt piece.

I didn't realize there were sever pieces per door. I thought there was a single felt piece.

Over 1,200 posts and this little detail just now slipped up on you.

Good lookin' car you've got there Bryan. Hmmm... wonder why I'm so attracted to it?

That must be why my windows rattle a little when they are up- the lower part is getting a little loose inside the door.

Is it difficult to get the upper window frame out without taking the door panel off?

Some bolts securing the front of the frame are behind the door panel - it must come off for this repair.

Just following up to my post, I figured out that the felt was not the cause of my sticky window. Even loaded up with grease, it would stick sometimes. I think it was coincidence that it stuck at that break in the felt; I think that break is normal between the two pieces. My issue was actually somewhere in the regulator itself. I can't see in there to tell exactly what was binding up, but after liberally greasing the teeth which come into view as the window is lowered, grease worked its way onto the regulator splines and things eventually smoothed up considerably.

This is all done with the interior trim panel off the door (and the plastic membrane removed), but no further disassembly than that. TomoHawk, if you haven't removed these panels before, it's not bad. My biggest challenge was removing the passenger side grab strap without damaging its little chrome bolt covers. They just pry off, but try to pry at an inconspicuous spot in case you mar the chrome. The panels themselves have several metal spring clips around their perimeter that engage the metal door panel. The FSM recommends lightly prying at each one with a screwdriver, which worked well for me. Some came out with just a gentle tug. Don't pull too hard in case the clips pull out of the back of the trim panel before they come out of the door.

One other comment (sorry this is getting wordy) is that you probably shouldn't use PB blaster on the splines/regulator. Since I couldn't see in there, I thought a blast of penetrating oil might work its way in to lubricate where I couldn't see or reach. However, after lubricating with PB blaster, the regulator squeaks something awful! I've never had something start squeaking after lubricating! Hopefully the PB blaster will eventually dry and go away and the window crank will quiet down.

I'll add a pic or two when I have a chance.

Edited June 27, 201311 yr by bacarl