How much to cut?

[CEgg11]

I am doing it on the ground, and outside. I am doing this on a shoestring budget, mainly using parts collected over 20 years of owning/fixing Z's. I have the whole floor cut out, except on the rear seam. (the ones "behind" the seats. I may have cut too much, and cut out the welds. I grinded it out to see if I could see where they were, but I am lost. I am attaching pics for help.

This forum has already helped so much.

BTW, anyone considering doing this, go get an air hammer from home depot (20.00) and you wont have to drill anything out. It just chews right through. just be sure you have a good angle. The welds at the front have to be done from the outside, but once I got that hammer going, I was done in less than 10 minutes. Getting ready to weld now.

also adding a pic of my other...

[CEgg11]

Can anyone see, if I have cut out the floor in the back? I can patch it up, no problem, but the new floor doesn't quite reach that high, I don't think.

[cbuczesk]

If you got the Zedd Findings floor I think there's enough extra metal.

Chuck

[CEgg11]

I am using floors from classic2customs..they are as good as the zedd floors, which I have used before, and a little cheaper. I should have it done tomorrow. I have marked where to cut, will cut and weld tomorrow, weather permitting. Sucks to be outside doing this. In Georgia, if you are working outside, you have a choice - bear the heat, or bear the bugs. I choose bugs more often than not.

[CEgg11]

A bit perplexed.. The floor will line right up with the rocker seam, and front/rear seams are ok, but the trans tunell fit is sketchy, the floor won't push down far enough. Question...

Hammer the tunnel back, or cut the floor back?

[Patcon]

On my floor pans the tunnel side had very straight bend lines while the factory tunnel has a very curved compound kind of line. So I made a cardboard template that lined up with the rocker edge and traced the curve. I then transferred the curve to the new floor pan. I made a series of cuts into the floor pan from the edge and using a hammer and dolly rolled the edge up like the original following the new curve. Worked great. I did not plug weld that seam on my car I butt welded it instead because I wanted to avoid a seam that could holds moisture and if prepped and painted right it would be less noticeable. If you have area that don't want the reshape just right. Tack in the spots that flush up and dolly to make the rest comply.

C

[CEgg11]

Thanks, Patcon, that is what I will try tonight, if weather permits. My goal is to make a quick and pretty Z for less than 4K, and I am on track so far, but part of that is doing all the work myself, and I am currently without a garage, so it is all outdoor work. I have the suspension ready to go - Tokico struts/springs, 1.5" sway bars front and rear, poly bushings, etc. Interior hasn't been started yet. Seats may get reupholstered at a local shop at 250.00 per. Is that a decent price?

[Patcon]

Be careful when welding on the tunnel side. I had my son be the fire watch, we were constantly putting it out. There tends to be a lot of grease in there and it would be easy to light it off. Also move around when you weld and use air cool it off or you will "oil can" the floor.

C

[CEgg11]

yup, knew those things already. I am posting more questions, though. I am a "measure 14 times, cut once" guy.. I made a cardboard template of the floor, and was determined to cut the floor according to that template. Once I started to cut, I got nervous about it, and thought better to form the pan instead of cutting it. I am back to the trans tunnel difficulty. I can't cut much more from the tunnel, because the trans mount is right there. I am adding pics for any help yall can give. I am tempted to weld the 3 sides that are ready to go, and just beat the tunnel side into submission.

[Patcon]

I made vertical cuts along that edge every 2-3 inches or so. I took a heel dolly that has a round end and worked all of that along there to make it round like the factory pans. I use zip screws and screwed the pan up where it goes along the rocker the seat cross member, etc lapping it over the tunnel metal. Then I took a body saw (mini air powered sawzall) and cut both the floor and the tunnel at once. That gave me two pieces of metal that were cut to exactly the right length. I did the cutting a little at a time. Cut 4 inches or so and tack it in. Then cut some more. Hammer and dolly as you go. I would make a cut error on the side of too long fit it and cut again if necessary. I didn't make the last cuts up front until I had almost the whole pan tacked in.

[cbuczesk]

That sounds like an excellent way to do it! Make sure you protect the glass and interior bits when you weld AND grind.

Chuck

[Patcon]

Absolutely agree on the interior protection. Drop clothes work good for this. Grinding tends to put little pieces of metal all over the inside of the glass which is no good. Welding too but the grinding throws the metal every where. That's why I like the body saw so much because it doesn't throw sparks.