Weird tranny behaviour

[Captain_Zeros]

Didn't say you were, just wanted to start at the beginning just in case. Plus if somebody with an issue finds this thread a year from now and that's their problem, that means I did good

Anyways, whenever I install a brand new master I make a point of bench bleeding it out of the car first. I plug the outlet port and run a piece of tube from the bleeder screw to the reservoir and pump the everloving crap out of it until fluid runs solid through the clear hose. (this technique can give you small foamy bubbles, but those'll be sorted out when you bleed the system as a whole in the car).

The old master is going to be full of fluid already, and you're using that fluid to push the air out of the lines and the slave, but a brand new master is going to be full of air and it can be extremely hard to get all the bubbles out of the master while it's hooked up to the hydraulic lines.

It's also entirely possible you got a defective new master cylinder, new in box defective parts do happen.

[Reverend]

So basically i can still "bench bleed" it, just have to remove the hydraulics line. "everloving crap" Haha, i hate that crap, even smallest drop can destroy (and have already done that) my precious paint. I wonder should i somehow replace the master cylinder "nipple" or what ever it is called, PO has done some havoc to the hex part of that and it has to be opened with pliers. Threads are okay, only the hex part is rounded up.

I wonder if any power tools would help, pneumatic bleeder etc?

Edited June 11, 2013 by Reverend

[Captain_Zeros]

Bleeder valves are easily swapped, just unscrew it all the way and put a new one in, just gotta find one with the right threads (always keep your old brake parts).

If you're worried about paint you can remove the master and bleed it in a vice on a workbench.

I've never used a hydraulic bleeder before so I can't speak on that, but I've done all the hydraulics on my car the old fashioned way. I always have the best luck when I use clear rubber hose on the bleeder nipples to prevent air from getting sucked back in at any point.

[Reverend]

Slave bleeder valve is okay, one at the end of hydraulic line aint (master side). Guess i'll try that power bleeder first, 19 bucks from nearby autoparts store.

[Reverend]

Well... power bleeding did not help with new cylinder but with the old one it works. Used about quart of brake fluid (per cylinder).. Weird thing is, that should you see a steady flow of brake fluid instead of bubbly.. with normal method (hose in a jar with fluid in it) i dont get many bubbles but power bleeder has them bubbles. It might be sucking air around the bleed nipple, but i dont feel any suction (which does not mean there aint any)

Anyway, im banging my head against the wall. Seller of the MC says there is nothing wrong with the new cylinder, but im outta ideas

[Reverend]

We powerbleeded it with my friends bleeder, it seems he has better equipment as clutch has been working since. Well, time for another problem then. Life would be too easy if all went well.

Im losing transmission fluid, there is traces of it where driveshaft is. I think its called rear output seal ? I wonder how hard is it to change with tranny on car, driveshaft is easy to remove but how about that seal...?

[EuroDat]

Once the drive shaft is out its as simple as digging it out with a screwdriver. Dont tap the new seal in with a hammer. That can damage it. Use the old seal or a short length of pvc pipe to protect the new seal when tapping it back in.

The seal size is 25/50x11mm.